Stock 20v or worked 16v? Help me decide...

[rogz]

Parts in total came to a bit under $2000 - that's another head, new cams, new cam gears, new technotoytuning adaptor, new gasket, new springs, quads, trumpets. Then I have to add labour for porting, to fit it (not so straight forward in my car - AH Sprite) and reprogramme the ECU. I reckon I probably saved around $800-$1000 on parts by scrounging around a bit. I didn't need to buy a new ECU as I have the Motec. Might get a few $ back from my old head – complete & with intake & TB & TPS (complete - anyone want one?). I'm sure I'll be spending some considerable $ to port the head, set it up and tune it on the dyno. I am not touching the bottom end at all.

It could be a WHOLE lot cheaper by forgetting about the quads and putting in slightly milder cams that work with the stock ECU.

The decision to stick with the 16v was pretty much made for me because it is already in and there'd be heaps of work to get something else in. If I could easily swap it, I would have seriously thought about a 4agze or turbo. Not so sure about the 20v.

[RobertoX]

i have the full rebuild kits here pm me for extra special price

they are 20mm gudgeon pin

sounds good!

[Stain]

I mustnt be looking hard enough. I've got off and priced up parts again and the total came to $7300 without Headwork or Labour...

TODA High Power Profile Camshaft 304 duration, 8.5mm lift
TODA Heavy Duty Valve Springs
4AG Valve & Guides
T3 Adjustable Cam Gears for 16V 4AG
4AG Lightweight Crank Pulley
4AG Water Pump Pulley
Timing Belt
ARP Main Stud Kit
ARP Flywheel Bolt Kit
Spool Forged Rods with ARP Bolts
10.7:1 Arias Pistons
Head Gasket Set with Bolts
TRD Head Gasket
Race Bearing Set
Oil Pump
HKS Hydraulic Oil Pressure Kit
Cusco Oil Catch Tank
Silvertop Quads
T3 20v Velocity Stacks
T3 20v ITB Adapter for 16v 4AG smallport
Adaptronic ECU
TRD Spark Plug Leads
HKS Super Header Type II Exhaust Manifold
HKS High Power Exhaust

Or am I just going over the top?

PM'd you Dave

[johnny_08]

i reckon u dont need the bottom 3, just normal plug leads will do not the trd marked up stuff, and just go to an exhaust shop for the exhaust setup, u dont need an expensive hks system for it. im not sure about the oil pressure kit thing so i wont say anythin but does all that include labour?

[johnny_08]

double post, got excited

[Stain]

Nope, no labour.

[johnny_08]

wow for 7300 id go turbo, regardless of insurance price

edit: how bout getting a new crankshaft instead of the quads?

[julzy]

How about a 7age.
Just a 7afe and 20v head.
You can get a head with quads for a few hundred.
New ecu, head work, rods and a exhaust you should be looking around the 100-120rwkw area.
And probably cheaper then a lot of the other options.
And performance parts for a 20v aren't to hard to come buy and the major problem with the bottom end rods, can be solved with getting some decent rods

[johnny_08]

i was having a look at a few 7age build ups, dont look too bad. wonder how much theyd cost to do

[Hen is a total nutcase]

Stain, I'd rebuild the 16V. You have it in there already and so it will save work, plus there is the argument (which I don't want to reignite here) as to whether the 20V is any better than the 16V once you get to the pointy end.

Plus it looks like you are going for big brand stuff at normal listed price. By scavenging for sale threads and eBay for a while you can usually find things much cheaper. And also looking at other brands, for example some of the local cam manufacturers rather than HKS, will reduce the price too.

Hen