clutch slipping

[johl]

ok so i pulled out my old clutch and pressure plate out of my gze ke70 last week and bought a trd 3 puck brass button clutch with pressure plate from banzai. while it was out i also got my flywheel machined and got a pin replaced as it was grinded flat from when it got done last :blink: so eventually i got it all back together and bled my clutch but the pedal still doesnt come out all the way and when i took it for a drive down the road it was slipping in second gear around 3k. i also noticed that it was not all that aggressive for a button clutch as my mate has a button in his track skyline and my one was very soft compared to his?

i'm at a loss as to what to do next as i have checked the clutch slave to see if its sittin in the right hole on the g'box clutch thing as there is 2 holes? and i have re bled it but still it feels bad and the pedal doesnt come out all the way? btw i still havnt put in one bolt into the gearbox at the top on the drivers side as its a kent and i couldnt be bothered yet... i doubt this would have any effect tho?

any ideas fella's?

cheers johl

[driftke70]

slaves rod sits in the divit in the fork not the hole, also did you check the springs in the pack that they were all sitting in correctly etc etc. There might have been a reason that pin was ground flush. in which case its probably scratching up your fw. As you have dont, start from the top work your way down, its a pita taking gear boxes on and off so try to check everything over before putting it back. But my moneys on the actual pack just been flogged out. Look for cracks etc, clutch kicking and slipping causes the springs to take a fair beating, soemtimes cracks even occur in the plate around them.

[johl]

i'v got a picture of the clutch on my members rides but it all looked ok before i put it back in. the pins shouldnt affect the clutch slipping as it should be more balanced now with all 3 in. thats what the guy at teh machining shop said anyways.
"But my moneys on the actual pack just been flogged out."
what is the actual pack? thanks for ur help but ur grammer is a bit hard to follow?
this is what my clutch looked like before it went in if u can see anything wrong with it?

[Hen is a total nutcase]

That pressure plate looks a little worse for wear, though I doubt it's causing your problems.

If it's not clamping properly then maybe the current setup isn't letting the clutch fully release. Get under the car and try pushing the clutch fork forward, toward the front of the car. You should be able to push it forward at least a few mm. If not then maybe your clutch pushrod is too long or you slave cylinder is siezed/dodgy.

If you can move it forward then your problems lies elsewhere. And you will probably have to drop the box to find it.

Could be many things.

Hen

[driftke70]

yeah it all looks fine to me, sorry about the way i wrote, my brain goes too quick for my fingers. Just make sure you are fitting it properly, if its misaligned it will do what you described to a certain extent. Check for recent wear from its recent fitment and see if it is even all around. If its thicker or deeper on one section or what ever. Make sure the fork is in the right place, and just try to bleed it as best you can, like get some serious pumping going and make sure you keep plentiful fluid in the reservoir, as they are quite small and can suck air in if the level is pretty low.

[johl]

lol that pic was before it the fly wheel got machined. while my mate was pumping the pedal when we were bleeding it the clutch fork?(thing that the slave pushes forward and back) i could move it further back when the clutch was released. so im thinking maybe i havnt bled it properly or that slave is fukt and not disengaging the clutch all the way and this is why it is slipping? does this sound right? also when i pushed the slave cylinder to compress it a bit so i could move it into place some clutch fluid came out of the rubber. maybe this is the problem as it couldnt build enough pressure to keep the clutch seperated?
so hope i dont have to drop the box again....

[egg_83]

there shouldn't be any fluid coming out of the slave cylinder but that would make the clutch not disengage. you can also adjust the clutch pedal from the pedal itself but i doubt these will make it engage. slave cylinder should be replaced if its leaking. if your having problems bleeding it go buy a bleeder from supercheap cost about $10 and bleeds perfectly every time

[driftke70]

new slave is like 25 bucks, just buy one, they take 10 mins to fit. If when you push the pedal down and it feels like its not disengaging entirely before the pedal is all the way down, then you need to adjust your pedal, i had to adjust mine a fair bit when i went 4k to 4age.

[Hen is a total nutcase]

If you can move the clutch fork with the clutch NOT pressed that's nothing to worry about. With your foot off the clutch, the fork should be doing nothing and free to move a bit to release pressure from the diaphragm springs.

Also it's the pressure plate that looks a bit rusty and average in the above photo, not the flywheel. So unless you got the pressure plate cleaned up while the flywheel was machined it will still be like that.

Also another issue is that if puck clutches aren't run in properly they will slip (and 3k rpm is around peak torque for a ZE) so it may be the clutch was cactus before you fitted it.

Hen

[johl]

yeh i gave the pressure plate a sand to get rid of the surface rust. i think i should just go buy a new slave and see if that helps. the fly wheel is second hand.. it was on my old ae80 clutch that used to be on my car but when it was machined it looked fine to me.
what worried me about me being able to move the clutch fork to disengage the clutch was teh fact that the clutch was not fully out when i could do this although there was no pressure on the pedal. i could literally lift it out further with my hand. which is leading me to believe my slave is a lazy lazy bastard...