track only car

[H8CHIR6KU]

for the outlet on the back of the head i used one that was made by sam q.


this is the photo of the top hose outlet and water pump with 4ac pipe bolted on the back of the pump.
this photo also shows why i used sams outlet instead of the rs chita one. the barb on sams outlet is the same size as the 4ac pipe. because i am not running a heater the rs chita outlet is a pain in the ass to set up. sams one with flow the same and means i only have to use one hose. as its a track car this is simple and means less to go wrong.



this is with the hose on. i did use a double clamp on the hose onto the pipe only because i had to cut it a little short which meant no rolled lip on the pipe.

and this is the whole setup complete. it really is simple and straight forward and shouldn't cause me any dramas.

[ae86=fun]

sexy hand model you have there hahah.

As a side note: The factory solid vac lines had to be removed to fit the top outlet, and have been replaced with a vac lines linking all the intake runners for a simpler layout.

Its going to be fun getting it off the hoist, considering it doesn't touch the ground.

[H8CHIR6KU]

as toby has said i did a bit of fucking around with the vacuum lines to make it all work.

first off i changed the 4th throttle barb with the first throttle barb.

i did this because the brake booster hose will be easier and neater to fit if its all aiming the same way. i just blocked off the 1st throttle barb as i dont need it.

[15LIDE]

that is sooo sexy.
looks like a nice build coming along.
cant wait to see finished product ay

[H8CHIR6KU]

as for the vacuum lines from under the throttles i used 5mm t pieces and 3mm vacuum line and joined them all together and ran them with the filters to the outlet above the 4th throttle. it seems this is eventually where they lead up to in the original position anyway. it will also act as a sort of balancing chamber for the throttles too


then for the dashpot and map sensor i used the same vacuum line and t piece and ran them off the 4th throttle vacuum barb.


the finished product^^. i also swithed around the fuel hose so that it goes straight down instead off at 90 degrees. to mount that to the filter i just cut off the locating tab

[Sam-Q]

its looking good but I believe you have made a mistake. That barb off the bypass backing plate is connected to the same channel as the top radiator outlet (the nice one), the steel pipe connected to the block is directly connected to the bottom outlet. So I think what you have setup is a radiator bypass and hence I think your engine will run pretty hot. Now to fix this is really easy, you just need to block both ends. If you like I will happily swap your rear bypass block for one without a heater barb in the side for free if you mail it back to me. For the pipe I guess now is a good a time as any to mention 2 new products I havent released yet as I just finishing making them. They bolt in the place of the original pipe on the back of the water pump and are either a blocking flange or a flange with a barb. I will take a pic of one of these block off plates and show you. That means you can get rid of one more hose and a pipe top make your already neat engine look even better.

[H8CHIR6KU]

hey sam, i was speaking with my friends about this and we all have different views on this. i was thinking more along the lines that cold water is drawn by the pump through the bottom outlet, and then pumped through the front of the block and also through the pipe on the back of the water pump. this would mean that it would flow cooler water through the front of the block and also to the back of the head. after this it would then flow through the top hose outlet into the radiator.

[ae86hachiroku]

I've seen you eyeing that last time at Aarons, sure enough it'll be in your car as well soon? hehehe

[H8CHIR6KU]

well onto other matters...

as i am using an adaptronic i wont be running the cap and leads on the distributor but i will be needing the crank angle sensor. so i purchased a cover off of anthony at kaizen garage.


fairly straight forward, just remove the cap and rotor and fit the cover using the bolts from the cap. replace the o-ring and fit to the original position

[H8CHIR6KU]

after all that i decide it was time to put the motor in.


it looks good in the pictures but it looks absolute porn in person