best money spent to give the 20v more ballls

[Sam-Q]

yeah thats what I wanted to know thanks, I don't know much about tuning you see.

[.ady]

is this add on's from a stock st ? i.e ecu crank etc?

really interesting thread i must say...ohh and sam next time im in s.e mind taking me for a drive?

[Sam-Q]

no, after what i learnt I would of gone for an aftermarket ecu straight up. It would of saved me so much hastle. This applies to both the silver and the black.

As for the drive, when your on this side next PM me and we will see if we can make it happen.

[charged]

have to agree sam, a good ecu and a good tuner will liven up the torque of a st or bt. Mine will be getting a freshen later in the year for the IP nationals at PI and tuned for e85. I expect we will spend 2 days on the dyno getting everything right. Sam do you have a sorce for Toyota parts, I want to get ne pistons, rings, bearings , plus a topend freshen of valves, valve springs etc.

Cheers
John

[dave2221]

hijacking this thread a little...

going to pull down my ST 20v soon as i think piston rings are gone.

assuming that i have an undamaged block, here are my plans

KEEP:
The EMS ECU
the bigger injectors
extractors (4-2-1)
the pistons (if there is no damage)

Change.
piston rings, valve stem seals and bearings (for non performance reasons)

CAMS:
i have "stage 2" cams.... now i dont know how big they are, i guess ill find out.... would like to go to a 272 / 280 and keep vvti

matchport and port head

balance a few things up

0.8mm head gasket.

aiming for 105-110rwkw

any suggestions or comments?

also currently have a 8,000rpm rev limit, thinking of taking to 9,000rpm after the tune.

and it is a street engine (and will be adding air con)

[Sam-Q]

its not a thread highjack if the original person who started the thread gets to learn more about his original query.

It does sound like you have a pretty good plan there, realistic and good bang for buck returns. So you already have bigger injectors, keep them or just use some stock ones and sell off the higher capacity set, either is fine

Where are the cams from? absolutely make sure they will work with VVT and I suggest that you go as far as get it signed in writing.

Don't have a 9000rpm rev limit without changing those rods. I hear thats about the revs that the rod bolts stap. Keep it around 8500. With those cams you shouldnt need to rev it that hard anyway although it would be handy on a long sweeping corner.

Got a pic of your pipes?

[fantapants]

hey sam ...

have heard that the blacktop rods are def a no go to 9000 but silvers have enough meat head that way fairly regularly. Bolt snapping is allways going to be an issue, but if it isnt a manufacturing fault, then id say it was due for a freshen up. If you are pushing your engine to 9000 regularly id be expecting to learn how to pull down my motor and do the consumable bits every 50000?

[dave2221]

yeah was thinking new bolts too...... although i regularly dont push the motor that hard..... not yet anyway

[Sam-Q]

I think if your going to revving to 9000 anytime then just buy some spool rods, they arn't that expensive and you get to lose a decent amount of weight

[greeneyes]

You could also look at shaping the crankshaft edges if you're not going to drysump it. Their is plenty of friction in a crank smacking through the oil flying around in a sump.

A lighter crank has the same effect as a light flywheel too.

We found that we couldn't run racing high-compression heads in the rally car without them blowing. I think racing does not run on full power/peak revs in one gear for very long, so they can use hand-grenade motors, whereas rallying has quite long stints with foot flat and revs high, often at lower speeds without lots of airflow into the radiator.

So how well your engine holds together depends on what you do with it.

Don't forget to strip the block to bare metal, every plug taken out and push test-tube brushes down every oilway. Best thing I ever learnt from working for a race-car engine builder was how to clean a block!