hey, yes i have researched but havent found exactly what im looking for,
handbrake isnt working or locking up when i use the car, im running a t-series disc rear end
i have done
- bled brakes
- tightened hand brake from in cabin
- checked pads with approx over 50% remain
i was told i can adjust it from disc, but not really sure how, anyone be able to help?
thanks in advance
poh
Why isn't it locking?
Does the lever pull all the way up and never get hard? = Needs more adjustment down on the caliper or some such
Or does it get hard but still not lock up? = Pads and rotor need a clean or new better pads.
But from what I've heard (no direct experience I admit), JDM T-series disc handbrakes aren't the best thing around and struggle to lock up.
Hen
like when i rest my foot on the brake and pull up the hand brake u feel the pedal get tighter, but doesnt lock up, ive yet to replace rotors but pads still have lots of meat on them.
Can you pull the handbrake lever all the way to the top of its travel?
I'm in the exact same position with gf's 86. I've been basically told to rebuild the calipars by everyone. But yeh, been told i can adjust the calipar with a specialty tool.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Hen is a total nutcase @ Jan 4 2008, 11:17 AM) </div>Thought I could relate my experience, if it helps at all..
I haven't used a drum T series handbrake, so I can't comment on the difference between drum/disc performance.
But my T-series disc handbrake locks up fine at around 80kph on bitchumen. Its a bit doughier on track where lots of rubber is layed down and there is more grip though. Still not too bad if you shift some weight forward before reefing it.
Good luck sorting it.
If the car is not a full import GTV or Apex, make sure you have the right handbrake cables and everything.
There is no adjustment (self adjusting) at the caliper. When the handbrake is off, the 'crank' should be resting on the 'pin'. Adjust the nut on the end of the cable so it goes 6 clicks when you pull up. I will give photos if you want.
The handbrake lever for disk brake is slightly different to that for drum, but this should not be a problem. The disk brake item pulls more cable, but in theory would be less powerfull.
Does it pull up 6 clicks? Get someone to put their foot on the brake, can you spin the back tyres?
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (poh_86 @ Jan 4 2008, 01:30 PM) </div>
the feeling you get when your foot is on the pedal is normal because the caliper piston twists out pushing fluid back to the reservoir. so either you've got an issue with the pads/rotors or only one of the calipers is locking. if only one caliper locking then i would check the cable condition and also make sure the piston boot isn't damaged. sometimes the tear offs of the piston boot can catch between the caliper and he piston stopping the piston twisting and retracting
I think it is to do with the design of the caliper rather than a fault with something, i have a disc rear end as well (JDM car) and it is pretty useless when it comes to using the handbrake.
they should have used the nissan style design with the internal drum, but i guess they weren't expecting everyone to be busting handbreakys when they designed the rear braking system.
if you want it to work faultlessly every time a hydro is really the only way to go, or try some grabbier pads, like Mu d1 spec or somethng similar.
yeah i always thought the handbrake was a bit softish.
so i bought the project mu d1 for the rears aswell they are pretty sweet. the only problem is they are very grabby which makes them a bit noisy too
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