as for the strutual integrity, it would possess some but very little, i was just bein a smartass
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Skin @ Feb 4 2008, 04:47 PM) </div>exactly.
pull out all the easy stuff like the spare wheel,carpet,back seats,plastic trim,roof lining, and the 5kg of tar on the floor and when most of that is then offset by your welded-in half cage,try and find other places to get it out from.
you'll be ditching the rear wiper,trimming down the wiring loom,fitting frp hatches,carbon bonnets,frp guards,pulling out the heater,cutting out the extra wiring under the dash,etc. etc.
and once all that's done,you'll start holesawing out the battery tray,cutting off the old rear seat mounting brackets,trimming steel off of the edges of panels around the jack/tool well and so on and so on...
the first 40kg is easy. every few hundred grams after that is work.
Justin...
as for the strutual integrity, it would possess some but very little, i was just bein a smartass
go for lexan windows, they're lighter then perspex
road car is pointless, makes for a shit ride...track car for sure! looks sweet when its deadingless and painted
does lexan last longer? more scratch resistant than perspex?
Justin...
as for the person that said 30kg wont make a diff well why not throw a further 30kgs in wen you go to the track????
I'm sure there is some sort of dif
as for structual strength it would be minimal but I'm sure a little but jus in chassis flex that would be all
why not remove? because its holding all the rust together
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no jus the flooding issues thats all
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>Perspex is actually slightly lighter.
Lexan is good for not scratching as easily as perspex. And is supposedly stronger.
ahh but in a car u need to run perspex thicker than lexan, so i guess its debatable
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