what ae86 parts are you chasing?
cheers Az
Hi guys
I have a haltech e6s ecu for sale. it comes with the full loom, the ignition module, relays and brand new sensors from haltech (check the website the sensors = $$)
I was gonna throw it on my old 2tgeu/ ta22 project but I sold the car before it eventuated (sigh)
I also have a usb flash drive that runs the software on windows xp/ vista computers, this has all the maps i could find on the net stored on it for most 4 cylinder and rotary applications (4age sr20det 13bt i know are all there) .
It is very easy to wire, set up and get a base tune on to save $ before dyno.
... I am interested in any offers, but more interested in swaps for ae86 gear so let me know.
for a rough benchmark tho, one went for 570 on ebay a few weeks ago, and that was with no sensors.
regards
Malohi.
what ae86 parts are you chasing?
cheers Az
Compatible with a Haltech dash unit?
i am chasing a t50 with the proper splines , jap brake upgrade as I'm just running aus spec brakes atm and or swaybars.
If no good trades i will take cash offers.
thanks for all the interest. I will post a pic of all the goodies in the next few days.
as for the hand unit, I'm not sure, it has a computer interface dongle (lol) you will have to check the website. it is an 'e6s'
I was just planning on running it with an old laptop i had.
btw I live in Redcliffe just nth of Bris.
cheers
$435 plus postage...
or a suitable swap. if no sale in the next few days it will be thrown to the lions on ebay
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (malohi @ Jun 30 2008, 08:59 PM) </div>so ur after 435 for the haltech then ?
yes, $435 and you get...
the e6s ecu
air temp sensor (x2 i think haltech item) *new
water temp sensor (haltech item) *new
oxygen sensor *new
idle air contorl solenoid (haltech item) *new
throttle position sensor (haltech item) *new
you will have to use your own map sensor for your application (n/a or boost) or you can use an afm
as for the loom,
i had it wired to a 2tg so all the ignition gear (ignitor box and associated wires) has been cut at one point (not shortened) as the 2tg was using its primitive ignition system. but the whole loom is there. If i can recall correctly i spliced a 30A fuse relay into the power to help add an immobiliser
it would take about 20 minutes with a soldering iron and shrink tube to get it perfect for any setup. it also comes with the factory fuse box.
I am throwing in a usb flash drive with the software on it long story.. i will explain if you buy but lets just say it will allow any laptop to run the software (dos based) on a xp or vista computer. I also have a few maps, but nothing special you couldnt find on the net.
i am chasing 435 for it plus postage (or you could pickup if you like) if i can't get a suitable swap.
cheers
Edit.
Look guys thanks for all the offers but as for the questions....
it is a standalone ecu. with the sensors it comes with you could run any engine from a 3 cylinder mightyboy engine to a 20bt cosmo engine. however if you think you can just somehow plug it into your engine and you are set straight away think again.
I am not going to install it for you or set it up for your system...
there are like 80 wires on the thing. go to haltech.com.au and get the e6s manual.
read it find what sensors you need decide what wires are needed.
get the loom and either lengthen shorten or delete necessary wires.
it is currently setup for my previous app as stated so there are cuts and splices here and there. but i have kept all the cut out parts and they are included.
plug the sensors in to your engine (or use the engines stock sensors.
plug the loom (or splice) into the sensors.
calibrate the sensors with the manual and software.
get a base map (off the net or from someone from a dyno tuning place)
if you can't get a base map or don't feel confident with the map you have, take it to a dyno tuning garage and get the thing tuned properly.
standalones are for serioulsy modded engines or carb->efi, n/a-> boost
its not some fully sick cannon for your hektic automatic corolla.
I am just selling what i advertised. if you have to ask if it will work on etc. then you shouldnt be buying a standalone for your engine.
In summary every engine is different and every setup will need the haltech calibrated differently. it is not plug in and play, but it is quite simple with a manual, common sense and google.
all it needs to run on any engine hardware wise is a map sensor for your application or a afm, $10 of wire from jaycar (to lengthen if necessary) scissors ,tape and a soldering system.
PLEASE RESEARCH BEFORE ASKING QUESTIONS. google and the manual will get an answer to you quicker then me.
SOLD
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