Well I have an oil pressure gauge on its way..
In any event, I actually started to work on it today got everything off down to the crank timing pulley.
According to the repair manual its just a grab the pulley and pull if off job. No dice, this thing is stuck fast.
So any thoughts on how to remove the bottom timing pulley?
Doesn't seem that a gear puller will fit in there, and there aren't any threaded holes to attach another sort of puller on so I'm running out of ideas.
The only thing I came up with was to maybe knock in a wedge from the top, pull it out, rotate crank 180 degrees, repeat until it comes off. My only concern there is that I might end up cracking the oil pump housing.
Any advice would be great thanks.
I feel your pain Globerg, i had excactly the same delima.
Wedge it out is about all you can do, i didnt hurt the oil pump housing but i did destry the timing pulley and the front oil seal.
Real pain in the ass.
If i had my time again i was be using MAP gas and heating that shit up, it should pull off fairly easy once you start to work it loose.
Just make sure you heat he pulley evenly on all sides.
Insert witty comment here....
One thiing I learnt while workin on some tuff 4a's, get a M6X1.25 tap, tap the two holes on the pulley, then use a puller, job done.
take the bolt out and spray heaps of WD40 in there. Keep doing it every 30 mins or so or until you get jack of it. The next day, take a "hard" soft faced hammer and Lightly tap it ON. Hit it about as hard as you would to start a nail into a bit of wood. It should be just enough to break the rust and stuff that has formed between the crank and the pulley.
The other (better) option is to get a proper puller. There are 2 x M6 threads in the pulley spokes. Use them with a puller to get it out. When you put it back on, put antiseize on the shaft and loctite on the thread.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (FKN16v @ Jul 18 2008, 07:57 AM) </div>I spent a while doing a sort of wedge behind pulley then leaver, turn 90 degrees repeat but ended up getting nowhere maybe I wasn't being harsh enough but I didn't want to damage anything.
I would have heated it up but I don't have access to anything which I can do it with unfortunately.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (gunbz-r @ Jul 18 2008, 08:28 AM) </div>After a while of trying the method I said above I gave up and decided to do what you did although I used an M6x1 tap not that it makes a huge amount of difference just that its a much more common size.
Anyhow, this was the result:
And here is the puller thing I made and the pulley itself:
The reason there are so many nuts on the bolts is because I had to gradually space the bolts up as it came further out because I didn't want to drill and tap all the way through the pulley.
It was so well stuck that I needed to use the puller all the way to the end of the shaft, I don't think it was ever in fact stuck fast, its just a SUPER tight pulley this one.
In any event I've got a couple more questions for those have been so helpful to respond:
1. When putting it all back together again, should I use my spare bottom timing pulley (which just slides on relatively easy) instead of this one because I may have weakened it from the drilling and tapping?
2. It would look to me that oil seal behind that pulley has seen better days as thought, what's a good technique for getting the thing out to put a new one in?
Thanks everybody :2thumbs:
Screwdriver and long nose pliers will get the old 1 out.
New 1 just lightly apply oil on the inside rim of the seal and slide it on, gently and evenly.
Once its at the point you can't push it by hand anymore gently tap on the seal with a 1\2" socket extension bar tapping gently and evenly around the edge of the seal till its all nice and flat.
Thats what i did, wether its the right way or not i wouldn't know but it worked for me.
Oh and i wouldn't use that belt pulley again either, but thats just me!
And just make it even harder for next time i applied loctite to everything when it went back together :o
I hope it isnt me doing it
Insert witty comment here....
Yeah I think I will end up putting my spare pulley back on, but I wont be using loctite on it or the crank bolt.
Well I determined from looking at my spare block (with oil pump still attached) that it would not be possible to remove the oil pump without taking the sump off.
So what did I do today, took the sump off!!! That sure was fun.
In the end I got the oil pump out and knocked the old crank main seal out. It was rock solid and had a couple of cracks in it so I'm guessing that was the source of my oil leakage.
With the pump off it seems to be in very good condition, I am hesitant to actually pull the pump apart though because I'm afraid that I may end up screwing something up inside it in the process so I think I'll just give it a good inspection looking for cracks then put it back on if everything seems good. I'll put a brand new seal in also obviously.
Then all I have to do is wire my ECU back in and the car will run again, hopefully minus the raging oil leak.
Then the only remaining thing to do is a complete reshell... I'm so over this car.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (SpotterOne @ Jul 4 2008, 11:26 AM) </div>does the oil pickup go directly to the pump though? I can't remember
30kw club
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Sam_Q @ Jul 20 2008, 09:25 AM) </div>Yep, that's why I needed to take the sump off completely.
a bit of a side topic but can you take your sump off without taking your engine out? I am thinking yes by putting a piece of wood between the towers, a chain around it to the engine hooks, then dropping the crossmember. Would this work?
30kw club
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