no engine harness is not needed as you only need 5 wires:
and I can give you a lot of pointers but I have to make an exit shortly
oh also I have this:
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no engine harness is not needed as you only need 5 wires:
and I can give you a lot of pointers but I have to make an exit shortly
oh also I have this:
![]()
My website: SQ Engineering - 4AGE and 3SGE upgrade/replacement parts
- SQ Engineering on facebook -
Please e-mail to contact me instead of sending a private message on here.
Sweet! Well if you are available online in a few weeks/up to a month`s time (I.e, when I have the engine) I`ll bring the subject about engine harness and ECU wiring work up then, as theres not really much concrete questions I can ask right now since I don`t have the engine![]()
I just noticed your website and saw that you are going to (Or already into it?) fabricate and sell AE111-AE101 4A-GE 20v Distributor Relocation kits, which I consider a wiring technical part of the 20v-AE86 swap, but correct me if I`m wrong.
So in that regard might as well kill 2 flies with one stone and ask a few questions about your SQ 20v relocation kit if thats ok:
Is it cheaper than SP-TEC`s? Sorry for dissing SP-TEC like this but 600-650 euros is a bit of a steep price for a kit with a few metal parts and screws and the silly rotor slotted washer that wears out regularily with normal use![]()
Does it include the stopping plate to put on the original location of the distributor? In either case I see that you sell those individually so no problem really
Does it have the inherent washer/spacer wearing out problem that SP-TEC`s kit has?
Can you adjust distributor freely contrary to the SP-TEC kit`s mere 3 positions?
Do you include plug leads with the kit? I speculate highly that I can probably use the original number 3 and number 4 plugwires for plug number 1 and 2 when I relocate the distributor but many others are paying up to 250 dollars or more for a set of customized race spec plug leads when they dont plan to spec up the internals anyways lol
Sorry for being a cheapskate about money when it comes to a race car, but the engine is just something I`ve had laying around for years, for all I know the 20v could have an internal defect so I only feel like spending hard earned cash on the Gr.A 16v engine rebuild.
Last edited by Tore; 8th October 2011 at 11:18 AM.
The engine`ll be done in a few weeks time, meanwhile I`ve had a look around in the barn and found most of the mechanical parts needed, but onto the electric stuff:
Apparently I need a thermostat housing, but the thing is that I don`t have that as my ae86 was carbed, question is, does the 20v need a thermostat and housing?
I might not be able to get a hold of one for a reasonable penny, all I want is for the stock AE111 20v to run at max RPM, I don`t need TRD ding dong this and that, if I`m to use proper money I`d rather spend it on the 16v..
Right now the car sports an electric radiator fan set up with a dashboard switch, can`t I just leave the the ECU thermostat plug out of the whole sheblam? Or are there other thermostat solutions that I can get for a quick penny/free out there?
Or will the 20v not work/go into the dreaded limp mode of boredom (I.e 6800rpm max)?
Last edited by Tore; 6th November 2011 at 11:17 AM.
my appologies Tore, I missed this post till now.
I do plan on making relocation kit's and the next prototype is about 3 weeks away. The estimated cost is $320 each, which as you would know is drasticly cheaper than any other option. It however only moves the cap and now the whole dizzy, which has many adavnatages such as being able to use the original leads, full adjustment as per original, super easy to install and no wearing parts. Hence no flogging out issue or limited adjustment. I also think that the SP-Tec kit is not good enough if for that much money it still can't do it's job. Also my dizzy blanking cover is 2mm thinner than their "thinnest on the market".
I will PM you with information on a cooling kit.
You can ignore the original sensor for the thermofan but not the ecu temperature sendor, this is the M12 one with a washer under it and 2 pins.
You will need to also hook up the speed sensor to get full revs.
My website: SQ Engineering - 4AGE and 3SGE upgrade/replacement parts
- SQ Engineering on facebook -
Please e-mail to contact me instead of sending a private message on here.