TRD built AE86 positive roll center adjusters

[--Redwork--]

I had to grind quite a bit off my lca around the ball joint to stop it rubbing on the disk with my RCA's. so that shoots down that idea.
And while I can vaugly see what your talking about with the angle.. I think its more an opptical illusion.

I just upsized the pic and used a straight edge to clarify..
You ARE correct.. there is a mesurable amount of off set towards the disk...
I still don't like the way the steering arm is done though.

[Sam-Q]

You most likely had to gind because of the bulky size of the lower control arm? I don't know I would have to measure it

[--Redwork--]

Yeah the stock one is fairly bulky.. But I also have no where near the amount of roll center correction as that.. My spacers are only 50mm

[Sam-Q]

ah I see, so perhaps it barely shifts it in afterall and it's just an optical illusion? I still think there is something in it as those bushes have a small outside diameter

[--Redwork--]

That bearing they are using is a good deal smaller than the factory ball joint and surrounding lca material..

I wish I knew where to get those bearings and the steel socket it fits into so I could make my own arms..

Also. None has mentioned the relocation of the front castor arm mount to reduce dive..

[Sam-Q]

wish granted:



I think a 16mm would be good

[--Redwork--]

HAHA.. would you beleive I have that ebay store on my favourites list and have never thought to look for those items. LOL..

[Sam-Q]

funny that

here's what I think you should do to replicate it:

Bore out a rod/steam pipe to leave a shoulder, cut the circlip and then weld a straight mitred pipe on the end going straight to a rod end on the far side. I don't think it's worth having an on car adjustement in the length. I personally would just go for a basic winding in and out adjustment with the arm off to equalise them and then lock it up. The upper hats can be used to adjust things.

Now can you explain further with the anti-dive? lower pivot point?

[--Redwork--]

If you look at the set up of that car, the front mounting point for the castor rod has been lowered from the stock location. to reduce the amount of dive generated under brakes..

Image that front mounting point is higher the the ball joint. when you brake those two points will want become more parrallel due to the forces acting uppon them.. This will drive the lowest point (the ball joint) up. Meaning the front of the car will drop/dive more..
Its more easy to understand if your read up on how to set up 4 link rear suspenion.. In reguard to squat, anti squat.
I'll try and find a linky for you.

[--Redwork--]

This is the best I could find on short notice.. Pretty good though..