So the idea is that the tube and perch stay still while the strut spins without them? You could put a spacer between the top of the threaded tube and the gland nut to stop any up and down movement. Powder coating looks great as usual.
So the idea is that the tube and perch stay still while the strut spins without them? You could put a spacer between the top of the threaded tube and the gland nut to stop any up and down movement. Powder coating looks great as usual.
Its actually just sanded to bare metal, etch primed, and then given 2 coats of Charcoal Hammer tone Paint. Powder coating is cool, but annoying in some ways as things grow too much, bolt holes close up and need to be cleaned out, which undermines the coating anyhow, and its not as great in heat as you might hope, unless you get the higher temp stuff. I'm not concerned about up down movement as much as spinning the perches on the strut when I turn the wheel. With my old coilovers you could sometimes hear the springs turning on the perches when you turn the wheel to full lock, I dont want them to spin the perch on the strut upright and wear them down over time. This car has a lot more droop with this set up than the last which was a lower and harder set up compared to this. I'm after ultimate grip. I intend to run the helper springs with the coil over kit and that will allow a lot of droop, and the spring rates are reduced anyhow compared to my old set up.
Im stuck on a small item. Im having issues finding the correct gland nuts for the ra40 strut/koni yellow combo. The sw20 mr2 gland nuts that come with the yellows are the coarse thread, but the ones I need are fine. If anyone has the finer threaded gland nuts around to suit the koni yellow shock then please drop me a post or a pm! I went to fulcrum and they let me look through their whole tub of gland nuts but still no joy, I only found one, which seems very very odd.
I think Dave at AJPS should be able to help you out with a new pair of those.
Found some.
Also that spring spinning issue on the old setup was probably the camber top bearing binding, I had that too. Chainsaw bar oil is what was recommended to me for the camber top bearings. Engine oil worked. I would definitely weld the sleeve to the strut even if its only a couple of 1cm welds on each strut bare minimum.
Got the gland nuts now I'm waiting on the bearing top perch system for the coilovers.
Brakes have been rebuilt with new pistons and seals. Also painted them now.
sean do them for you?
He taught me how on the first and I did the second.
noice....im too lazy to be bothered doing it myself. stupid oiley crud
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