Not necessarily, I had a set of adjustable pullies that were a tooth out when set at zero.
See here for knock pin orientation:
this I will have to do so I can clear up the cam timing issue. however I don't have stock cam gears. so is it ok if I set my adjustable ones back to zero this should be the same thing yes??
And I mesured the stacks there 70mm long.
This arvo I set the cam gears to 0 and took it for a drive it seems a little better in the mid range nothing to go crazy over but the idle has become more aggressive now sounds really good haha
Last edited by slider4life; 19th September 2014 at 06:46 PM.
Not necessarily, I had a set of adjustable pullies that were a tooth out when set at zero.
See here for knock pin orientation:
A few thigns to note here:
- blacktop throttles are too big, simple as that. While it won't bog down too much it would hurt your overall power. Jamie will be able to give more solid answers on this one that me. Even 43mm silvertop throttles are pretty big for a mild 16V.
- can you compare this to other engines that have been on the dyno? some read real low. Although being a mainline it should be good. How about against other 4age engines as a basis of comparasin?
- take the a cam cover off an look for the number and also measure the lift, neither of these require taking the cams out
- Are you using sock filters?
- pic of the manifold
- I am not familiar with Sp-Tec's stacks, post a pic? Hopefully it's better than the parts I have seen so far. It wouldn't be causing a big power loss though.
- Pic of the extractors? also can you measure the outside diameter of the pipes?
- As other said try tweaking that cam timing
- While Wolfs have their issues it shouldn't be the problem here either. If you have the fuel and enough ignition timing it should make the power.
- porting looks fine, as you said it appears to be a very mild clean up so it's a non issue.
- the tuner has no opinion?
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Ok well im getting some were now cam specs are deff toda 288 deg with 10mm lift.
Found it had 3 deg timing at idle and 14 deg at 3000rpm.
So ive now got 13 deg at idle and 36 deg at 3000rpm and its a diffrent car over 5000rpm its pulling lile it should.
Ive also set the cam gears to zero.
Only issue now I need the ecu adaptor for the wolf so I can get into that and see what the tune looks like.
Also I did check the cam timing and that was fine.
Sam q they seem to look like good stacks here is a pic
Now would you guys recomend I move the adjustable gears a few deg advance to make these cams come on earlier???
Rev limit is set at 8500 and it now sewms this is to low it is pulling so hard up the top end. I recon ive gained a good 10 to 15 hp for sure super stoked more fiddling and I reckon ill find more hp in this thing
Last edited by slider4life; 20th September 2014 at 06:43 PM.
those stacks have a flat outer bellmouth which isn't good but the more important part which is the entrance curve is good and the flange transition is ideal. Looks like the best I have seen out of Japan so far. Good thing it's not like the rest of the stuff that I have seen them make then!
Have you had any thoughts about what I said about the throttles? Bigports have airspeed issues as is, hence TVIS so by having too large a throttles won't help. But I woudl understand you not wanting to change because of what you have already.
Change one cam at a time one degree and see what it does for you, if it's good then keep going.
Now what about filtration, do you run anything?
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- SQ Engineering on facebook -
Please e-mail to contact me instead of sending a private message on here.
Hi sam yeah that makes sence having too big a throttle but as you said im not going to change what is starting to work for now.
Yes I do run uni filter socks on it only took them off for the photo so people could see the setup and they are near new very clean ect.
I will start moving the cam timing but my question is am I moving both intake ans exhaust adv one deg at a time or is one advance and one retard??? As the old tuner had it setup 3deg retard on intake side and 3 deg advance exhaust side.
Advance the intake timing, retard the exhaust is the general rule of thumb. For a bit of a guide, refer to the toda cam pulley sheet I put up a few days ago.
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Thanks slimer86 I have followed this and gone 2 deg advanceon intake and 2 deg retard on exhaust side car seems to be hauling arse to compare what it was. But I think now it needs more revs it hits limiter but its still pulling hard.
also need to get into the ecu and see what his done with fuel and timing ect and raise rev limiter.
were is tge best place to get a wolf data cable
Three tuners and none of them noticed that?
If you've got good AFRs then, as everyone else has said, I'd be checking cam timing and getting the thing properly tuned, with special attention to the ignition timing. Ignition is important for making good power.
Hen
Hen I agree with you all three missing it is odd. But hey its the only najour thing ive changed and now the car goes much much better. Ive checked cam timing and its good