budget?
Hey fellas
I was just looking at rebuilding my 20v and wanted to get a price on all cost of reputable brands of parts
Pistons, bearings, seals?
It's just going to be a bottom end rebuild so any suggestions please let's know.
Thanks
budget?
depends whats worn and if your doing a standard re-build or going for a bit more punt.
just a standard spec rebuild, ACL race bearings and rings. genuine toyota seals
prob best to get a local engine rebuild place to do most of the work. if your mechanically capabe then pull the head off and just take the bottom end down. tell them you want ace (groved) race bearings. if nothings busted they whould be able to re-use the standard rods/pistons.
prices vary from shop to shop and exactly what is done etc.
or if you went for more grunt would want hi-comp pistons, rods, very acurately balanced bottom end.
also another thing, if the bottom end needs a reco then the head prob isnt that far from needing it too. a deck and new valve seals, valve seats re-cut would be a minimum.
Money is no issue, but im not going to blow stupid money on bits i dont need. If the part is reputable and worth the cash ill pay for it.
Yeah i was looking for a sort of standard/upgrade rebuild nothing overly crazy on the bottom end as i might be upgrading soon to a 7a bottom end, and will go spastic on that.
My head is where its at, im spending quiet a bit on the head work, cams, etc. But bottom end i was just looking for something slightly upgraded then the stock internals. As later on the head will be moved onto the 7a block.
My 20v rods and crank is fine, so i was just looking for pistons and bearings.
But like i said if i wanted something slightly upgraded can someone please point me in the right direction.
While im there i may aswell get it balanced etc so yeah
Cheers
ACL race bearings, (the heat treated ones, i think they call them black bearings.
get some new rings too.
as for pistons, i wouldn't waste the money. just bump the comp up a little, whether you do that through deck or head height or a gasket is up to you.
My blacktop, when it was in beau from westsides car made over 130kw with standard internals.
DAMO, pistons are generally the same price if you go up .5 in compression or 2..
also why do you want a 7a bottom end? i know it seems to be the new "in thing" but i personally like the 4ag for the revvyness of the short stroke. if you want the toque then it seems to make sense to go to a larger factory motor (like ca, sr 3s etc). hell a N/A sr20 should be cheap as chips (complete with with box for $1500?)
if your intending on replacing the bottom end then just do the basic rebuild and save the cash. altho ARP rod bolts arnt very expensive and could be a cheap insurance item.
the piston choice isnt that easy because a good piston choice for the 7mm stroke is quite different than that of the 85.5mm stroke of the 7A. I have to agree with Gunner thought, the standard pistons are well made and fairly light for a stock item.
What are you thinking of doing to the head exactly?
My website: SQ Engineering - 4AGE and 3SGE upgrade/replacement parts
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Well like the theory stands there is no replacement for displacement.
I really wanted to test middle ground with a bt20v with head work cams etc, but now i no my bottom end is gone iam stuck between a 7A build or 4ag20v build (Bottom end)
So obviously instead of spending XX amount on a bt20v bottom end wouldnt it be better to just go 7A straight up.
Id say a 7A with rods pistons, modified crank would be alot more powerful then a midly rebuilt bt20v bottom end?
Atm im in a predicament about what bottom end to rebuild, sorry for running off the initial question.
Sam: the head will be ported and polished nothing extremely crazy but a mild sort of porting. Cams are 288 9m lift toda ex and in. Toda Adjustable cam gears, Toda valve springs, and obviously upgrade the valve train.
well if you go for a 7a bottom end use the stock silvertop pistons. If you go for the 4a bottom end then use the silver.
288 cams without the 7a bottom end might be a bit sad in the mid range, but I dont know more than an educated guess as I havent tried it.
The woudl be no point changing the valve springs or anythign else with the valve train if you go for the 7a bottom either. With 9mm of lift I see no way your springs are going to fatiage or bind and your revs wont be high enough to cause any bounce.
My website: SQ Engineering - 4AGE and 3SGE upgrade/replacement parts
- SQ Engineering on facebook -
Please e-mail to contact me instead of sending a private message on here.