beams ohh yeah.
beams ohh yeah.
im not going to bother to read the whole thread but honestly.
LOL.
beams is a serious conversion, and serious motor, and fairly serious NA power.
20v.. lol its hardly a conversion at all. and it just a 4age.
youre talking a 10 years older engine, with 20% less capacity.. not really comparing apples. and a 20v has no chance of ever making the same power as a stock beams. it may pull the same figure on the dyno if you put $10 000 - $20 000 into it. but it will never accelerate the car as fast. capacity plus a much more sophisticated valve control system says never.
78's
well cams, compression, extractors and ecu are what i have planned for mine. may eventually get port, polish, valves cut, knife edged and lightened crank but that would be later down the line as i don't plan on changing the engine to anything else unless someone comes up with a decent (and not extremely priced) way to put a 2zzge in an ae86.
i'm guessing it will cost closer to 5-6k than 8-10.
Silver Top $400
Rebuild + 0.5 mm headgasket $500 ish
Water kit $400
ECU + Tune $1500
Cams $1500
Clutch + FLy Wheel $1,000
extractors $300
I may have got the 4AGE fairly cheap but this is a rough guide of what i think it will cost. anyone who's done the conversion have a different opinion on what it will cost?
No idea how much a BEAMS conversion would cost, but im assuming once its all in there it would be close to the 10k mark.
Last edited by Axentrik; 14th July 2009 at 01:31 PM.
dude stick 16v or 20v if you must do something different, beams would be a fabrication nightmare, not to mention the extra weight
Hey mate what application will the car be for? If your talking about bt20v and beams 3s you must have quite abit of money to play around withIf you want a hipo NA engine have you ever considered a 1UZ of a peripheral ported 13B conversion? Or if you want something cheap and simple why not a 4agte, a 150 rwkw 4agte will be 100x more reliable than a 150 rwkw na 20v
the weight isnt such a HUGE difference guys.
i have pulled a lot of the engine, so all i have left in terms of accessories is the alternator. Manifold is ditched in favour of quads, and that thing is huge, so prob save a tiny bit there.
prob save a bit on wiring too as there is fuckloadsbut seriously i recon there is prob only a couple kilos in it. I wieghed the 4age with clutch on and weighed the beams with no clutch or flywheel. cant remember the numbers - too drunk
but the difference was only a little more than the wieght saved by going frp bonnet from memory.
And its fairly easy to bring the weight back enough to not have the extra wieght swinging in front of the wheels. 4age sit relatively forward. The blocks are only about 1 - 2 cm different discounting the funky sump. The 4ag seems to mount directly between 2 and 3, but the beams mounts can be pushed back to an equivelant under 1 or between 1 and 2. (this is a bit of educated guestimation as i have only measured, not thrown the engine around the bay)
But it is a serious bit of work![]()
RIP Carly - a smile to light the world.
06/07/2011
my standard dump and cat from the gen 3 weighed so much, the rest weighs no much more than a 4a.
wheelfriends.wordpress.com
it wouldnt be that much of an night mare it would just take time to do and to do it right thats all its like with any conversion it takes time the main thing would be the sump i dont care about my gearbox tunnel as i would make a new one so i could use the 6speed box
heaps of people have done it so it cant be that bad with the hole weight problem
The comment about fibreglass bonnet, that doesn't make much sense, fibreglass bonnet with a 4AG then that's even lighter then?
On paper depending what the difference on weight is, I'm still keen on finding this out for myself, but something even like 20kg makes a huge difference when sitting on the front of the car. And I'm willing to bet the BEAMS is quite a bit heavier then the 4AG, not too mention the gearbox and the diff you'll need the overall weight increase would be huge.