handbrake issues

[poh_86]

hey, yes i have researched but havent found exactly what im looking for,

handbrake isnt working or locking up when i use the car, im running a t-series disc rear end

i have done
- bled brakes
- tightened hand brake from in cabin
- checked pads with approx over 50% remain


i was told i can adjust it from disc, but not really sure how, anyone be able to help?

thanks in advance
poh

[Hen is a total nutcase]

Why isn't it locking?

Does the lever pull all the way up and never get hard? = Needs more adjustment down on the caliper or some such

Or does it get hard but still not lock up? = Pads and rotor need a clean or new better pads.

But from what I've heard (no direct experience I admit), JDM T-series disc handbrakes aren't the best thing around and struggle to lock up.

Hen

[poh_86]

like when i rest my foot on the brake and pull up the hand brake u feel the pedal get tighter, but doesnt lock up, ive yet to replace rotors but pads still have lots of meat on them.

[Hen is a total nutcase]

Can you pull the handbrake lever all the way to the top of its travel?

[DRFTAE86]

I'm in the exact same position with gf's 86. I've been basically told to rebuild the calipars by everyone. But yeh, been told i can adjust the calipar with a specialty tool.

[skit]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Hen is a total nutcase @ Jan 4 2008, 11:17 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=462905)</div>
But from what I've heard (no direct experience I admit), JDM T-series disc handbrakes aren't the best thing around and struggle to lock up.

Hen[/b]

Thought I could relate my experience, if it helps at all..

I haven't used a drum T series handbrake, so I can't comment on the difference between drum/disc performance.

But my T-series disc handbrake locks up fine at around 80kph on bitchumen. Its a bit doughier on track where lots of rubber is layed down and there is more grip though. Still not too bad if you shift some weight forward before reefing it.

Good luck sorting it.

[Jonny Rochester]

If the car is not a full import GTV or Apex, make sure you have the right handbrake cables and everything.

There is no adjustment (self adjusting) at the caliper. When the handbrake is off, the 'crank' should be resting on the 'pin'. Adjust the nut on the end of the cable so it goes 6 clicks when you pull up. I will give photos if you want.

The handbrake lever for disk brake is slightly different to that for drum, but this should not be a problem. The disk brake item pulls more cable, but in theory would be less powerfull.

Does it pull up 6 clicks? Get someone to put their foot on the brake, can you spin the back tyres?

[mech`s blue]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (poh_86 @ Jan 4 2008, 01:30 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=463033)</div>
like when i rest my foot on the brake and pull up the hand brake u feel the pedal get tighter, but doesnt lock up, ive yet to replace rotors but pads still have lots of meat on them.[/b]


the feeling you get when your foot is on the pedal is normal because the caliper piston twists out pushing fluid back to the reservoir. so either you've got an issue with the pads/rotors or only one of the calipers is locking. if only one caliper locking then i would check the cable condition and also make sure the piston boot isn't damaged. sometimes the tear offs of the piston boot can catch between the caliper and he piston stopping the piston twisting and retracting

[driftism]

I think it is to do with the design of the caliper rather than a fault with something, i have a disc rear end as well (JDM car) and it is pretty useless when it comes to using the handbrake.

they should have used the nissan style design with the internal drum, but i guess they weren't expecting everyone to be busting handbreakys when they designed the rear braking system.

if you want it to work faultlessly every time a hydro is really the only way to go, or try some grabbier pads, like Mu d1 spec or somethng similar.

[mech`s blue]

yeah i always thought the handbrake was a bit softish.

so i bought the project mu d1 for the rears aswell they are pretty sweet. the only problem is they are very grabby which makes them a bit noisy too

[static]

sorry to drag this up, I know I'm raping an aged thread but at least I'm using the search engine ^_^

I'm trying to decide on a suitable diff conversion atm and after changing to jdm discs on the front I thought the next logical step would be to get a t series diff with the jdm disc setup for the rear.

However I havent been hearing good things about the disc setup so I'm kinda confused as to what to do?

So discs or drums? whats your opinion?

[Hen is a total nutcase]

Corona rear discs on a T18 diff.

Easier to find (and cheaper) than JDM diff and JDM calipers. Better handbrake. Bigger calipers and disc too I believe (best look that up and check before taking it as gospel though).

Hen

[E7]

in my KE70 i have noticed if you tighten it in the cabin you can over adjust it and it doesnt do a thing at all even with a good yank!

advice is to loosen off in cabin and do it properly at the drums it self, easy shit yo

[driftism]

dunno if you actually read the title of the thread, but it's for a disc rear end... they don't have an adjuster in the caliper like the drums do.

[yoshimitsu9]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Hen is a total nutcase @ Jan 30 2008, 09:47 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=477050)</div>
Corona rear discs on a T18 diff.

Easier to find (and cheaper) than JDM diff and JDM calipers. Better handbrake. Bigger calipers and disc too I believe (best look that up and check before taking it as gospel though).

Hen[/b]

i have the coronas on the rear in my car. they are quite rear biased. they are the same calipres that were used in bluebirds, r31 skylines, several models of commodore i beleive. so you can guess why they are so rear biased. having these brakes eliminates the need for the handbrake while sliding on wet bitumen at the track in my experience

[Jonny Rochester]

The brake bias is ment to be that with a hard brake the fronts lock up before the back. If the back lock up first, this is considered a bit dangerous as your braking stability is decreased. All cars will have a similar bias, because it can be adjusted and it set up from the factory.

There is a rear brake pressure limiting valve on the firewall or inner gaurd for this. Maybe you have changed or got rid of this? If you have different brakes and the bias is out, you should buy a adjustable rear brake bias valve from a rally/race shop and set your car up properly.

[ae86 drifter]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Jonny Rochester @ Jan 5 2008, 01:54 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=463529)</div>
If the car is not a full import GTV or Apex, make sure you have the right handbrake cables and everything.

There is no adjustment (self adjusting) at the caliper. When the handbrake is off, the 'crank' should be resting on the 'pin'. Adjust the nut on the end of the cable so it goes 6 clicks when you pull up. I will give photos if you want.

The handbrake lever for disk brake is slightly different to that for drum, but this should not be a problem. The disk brake item pulls more cable, but in theory would be less powerfull.

Does it pull up 6 clicks? Get someone to put their foot on the brake, can you spin the back tyres?[/b]

i have to disagree with the statement regards self adjuster on the calipers.ive been through this problem and its all fixed now.when pressure is applied to the foot brake the rears will lock,but when the hand brake is applied they wont,release the cable at the lever and let the cable spring back against the caliper,then re adjust at the lever.

if u want POH PM me and ill give ya my phone number to explain it alot better