4AGZE discussion

[Gilly]

Hello all

recently a thread was started in the QLD section about 4AGZE's questioning owners experiences with the 4AGZE motor. It has since become a bit of a discussion and a few new questions and info has come to hand. I thought it would be a good idea to start a tech thread and gain some views of other owners outside brissy and even just to those who are in the know. a lot of info could be gained for new players.

basically things like engine mods (bigport/3sge TB upgrade, intercoolers, pulley kits etc) gearbox experiences, other related mods like diff gears etc

pretty much let us know your setup and how it goes, what you like, what you don't, any mods you have heard about or have done that might be of use to others.

i'm sure once started the questions will arise and a very informative thread can be born

thanks all

David

:)

[riojin]

theyre a good engine like all 4a's are. if youre a lover of torque theyre well worth it. the reason i went for a gze is i wanted a 4cylinder that felt like i was driving a 6cylinder.

T50's hold up fine aslong as you know how to shift properly.

i am using a 15psi nevo pulley kit which works great. its running at 14psi because i have a front mount intercooler and you lose 1-2psi with them. the difference between the 15psi and the stock 8psi pulleys is extreemly noticable.

I'm running the stock ecu which works very well even with a modified engine. apparently aftermarket ecus and gzes are a bitch to tune.

i have a 3inch exhaust system which is using a cat and muffler and its loud. at idle it sounds like a normal 4ag but when you rev it it sounds like a beasty rotary.

my belts are tensioned properly and my sc runs from idle all the way up to my limiter at 7250rpm. it doesnt push as hard torque wise when revved over 6000rpm but it produces more power above 6500rpm.

i have a 4age bigport throttle body in my posession which i was planning to put on but i may have sold the car before ill get a chance.

all in all i feel 4agze's are a fun car and are much faster than the average NA but they are still pretty slow. theyre better for the beginner drifter because if you drop revs you getting higher torque so you can continue the drift.

[Hen is a total nutcase]

I've run a 4AGZE for 4-5 years and it's been a pleasure.

First engine came straight from a wrecker, got extractors, 10psi pulley, aftermarket management (tuned at 110rwkw) and loved being thrashed. It eventually snapped a crankshaft just behind the timing pulley, possibly due to over-tightened SC belt. Peak torque was at 3300 RPM and peak power around 7000.

Second engine has a little more work and I will update with results once tuned.

They are great around town as you have power from any revs when you put your foot down. Also good on track for the same reason.

I concur that the standard AE86 driveline will hold a stock - mild GZE if you show a little sympathy. I drifted for 18 months (at least 20 events) with a T50 and S series diff. I broke 2nd gear once while autocrossing and 1 axle using super sticky rally tyres. However a gearbox and diff upgrade will improve your confidence (I no longer carry a spare gearbox, axles and diff centre to events).

I don't think aftermarket ECUs are hard to tune on a GZE. They are just like any other engine. However the idle is a pain, because of the large post-TB inlet, and also because the stock idle controller uses 3 control wires, which I think is unusual. When tuning the idle SLOW DOWN the tracking. You may need to increase your base opening value and bump up your idle speed to get it to work.

Hen

[v-tec]

Good move Gilly, right on the time when I'm about to need this.

Question: Was gona ask a whole paragraph about exhaust but easiest question is what is the stock Ae101 exhaust size?
Just wanna make sure that my 21/4 from the bigport wont have too much backpressure, I'm sure it wont.... but let me know if i absolutely shouldnt run this.

[egg_83]

Iv got 2 1/4 exhaust its fine.

The tuner i used to tune my microtech didn't have a problem tuning it. My ze only hunts when cold and i only have a stock tb and no cold start

[JDMJNKY]

i used to run a ze in my drift car with haltech ems extractors, was in a ke20 stock boost with a jap t50 and a stock ke weldie. Went awesome for about 3 years, then went in my 86 with supra same side cooler pipes so they were short. Was preety weak imo so got a nevo was still preety weak and blower started leaking oil got sick of it and went turbo and never looked back!!! Ran the jap t50 behind it the wole time never missed a beat broke an s series centre tho!!

But for a stock ze engine in a street car the torque and response from like 1500rpm pisses all over a turbo engine and they are a strong engine with lower boost for sure.

Hard to work on the engine with the blower on there and just looks like a lot of stuff jammed onto the motor!!

With stock boost a mildly worked 100kw na4a could keep up with me!!!

just read the above post i havent seen a ze that dosent hunt at idle!!

[Nikkojoe]

Mine would hunt from time to time, but hunts bad with boost leaks. When i got rid of the leaks, I had no hunting (but I can get it to stabalise if I want to).

Anyone got any tips for chronic belt slip? I tighten it up all the time though it always eventually slips again. Perhaps I should buy a gates racing belt (maybe they don't stretch much? or a waste of money...?)

With an sc12, keep the cooler piping small (2"), use a small cooler (nothing that much bigger than the standard top mount is needed otherwise you are just loosing boost and response for no extra cooling gain) and keep the pipes as short as possible. SC12 can't supply a large volume of air, so big pipes are just going to do not much good at all (also will slow the air velocity down). With pulley kits, they don't pump out more air (might do if you had a larger throttle body perhaps) but pump out hot air. The SC14 can deliver a greater volume of air and you will gernerally find at less PSI, the gze will make the same if not more power than with an sc12. :)

[stinger_007]

What i really want to know is what is the best choice for diff gears?

4.3 ? 4.5? i have 3.9's, and i reckon 4.7's would be too short.

Discuss.

[dustyae86]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (stinger_007 @ Apr 24 2008, 04:20 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=522349)</div>
What i really want to know is what is the best choice for diff gears?

4.3 ? 4.5? i have 3.9's, and i reckon 4.7's would be too short.

Discuss.[/b]

in a daily i would keep the 3.9, otherwise a 4.11

[Hen is a total nutcase]

Keep the diff ratio lower. I'd be sticking around 4.1ish. They have a wide, low torque band, so high diff ratios aren't really required.

Nikkojoe, I don't really agree about the SC12 related stuff. I ran the stock cooler front mounted and suffered serious heat soak while drifting. Now I have a GZ20 cooler twice the size and things have improved (still not great) and I noticed no difference in response or idle behaviour. Also while an SC14 will work better, the biggest pulley kit you can find would have to be one of the best bang for buck things to do on an SC12ed 4AGZE.

The SC12 is a perfectly good bit of kit, not as good as a twinscrew, but plenty good enough for 110-130rwkw.

Hen

[reecegze]

i was running my ae86 with a 4agze with fmic behind a s series diff and t50, went well then i converted to an 4agte on stock afm electrics the t50 is holding up well and the s series diff is still going "just" after 8 hard runs last night at wsid. The s series has proved me wrong and it can take a beating.. and the t50 is a good box if you no how to drive and shift properly.

[Gilly]

i actually think the 4AGTE setup is kinder to T50's than the stock supercharger arrangment

instant torque kills boxes, you can generate boost in neutral with a ZE :lol: so they hit pretty hard straight away whereas the spooling nature of the turbo means the torque is somewhat more progressive as it builds later in the RPM range.

good advice r.e diff gears, i would have thought 4.3 would be acceptable but i have already got a 4.1 and am not paying to experiment with such a small difference as a 4.3 :P anything over that would as said earlier be too far off, they aim for the wrong rev range for the lowdown characteristics of the ZE

new point to raise

intercoolers and piping layouts

i want to run a midsize cooler with inlet and outlet both on the same side (drivers) to keep the piping short. even had the thought of a squarish sized cooler with the conventional east west inlet/outlet layout but mounting it vertically so the inlet to the cooler would be at the bottom of the rad support and close to the S/C outlet and the cooler outlet would be high and close to the engine inlet piping

further discuss

p.s this thread is most enjoyable

[ke70dave]

hey gilly have you thought of just mounting the stocko cooler (the topmount square one) at the front of the car? seems to be a relatively ok size

only think I'm not sure how the pipes go on stock gze intercoolers

edit: just read above, and apparently people have had bad experiences with them

other options could be just a stock skyline side mount? i hear the R34 stock mounts (GT-T) are good for some excessive amount of horsepower....

[v-tec]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>
Nikkojoe, I don't really agree about the SC12 related stuff. I ran the stock cooler front mounted and suffered serious heat soak while drifting. Now I have a GZ20 cooler twice the size and things have improved (still not great) and I noticed no difference in response or idle behaviour.[/b]

so I'm guessing you don't rate the standard coolers, forgive my confusion but why did it get heat soak from being front mounted? too close to the radiator or something?
I would have assumed it would be more air flow than the conventional fwd setup.

I'm also interested as Gilly as saying on having coolers inlet and outlet on same side for smaller piping.
I dunno how well a north south inlet and outlet would go, anything wider (in this case taller) than a foot would probably require too much bending in the piping... id like to see the idea tried tho

Gilly i got a pic I'm about to post in ur other gze thread :)

[Todd]

i would love to see some pictures of cooler pipe layouts within the engine bay and rough sizes of coolers as I'm thinking i will just front mount the stock top mount... :)

[Gilly]

a small stock cooler off something else may be better suited

i remember an old soarer had a thick brick like cooler that was supposed to be a good unit, would be interested in hearing of other "stock" units that could work ala R34 gtst option that Dave mentioned.

[Todd]

at one point i looked at aristo coolers, they are larger than gze coolers although are still pretty confined (they are thick instead of big).

should be able to pick up stock coolers for free :)

[Gilly]

noted

cleverly ducted, i don't think thickness is a problem, i 've seen compact coolers work well given a good feed

sounds like a import wreckers trip is in the works haha!

[Nikkojoe]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Hen is a total nutcase @ Apr 24 2008, 03:18 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=522380)</div>
Keep the diff ratio lower. I'd be sticking around 4.1ish. They have a wide, low torque band, so high diff ratios aren't really required.

Nikkojoe, I don't really agree about the SC12 related stuff. I ran the stock cooler front mounted and suffered serious heat soak while drifting. Now I have a GZ20 cooler twice the size and things have improved (still not great) and I noticed no difference in response or idle behaviour. Also while an SC14 will work better, the biggest pulley kit you can find would have to be one of the best bang for buck things to do on an SC12ed 4AGZE.

The SC12 is a perfectly good bit of kit, not as good as a twinscrew, but plenty good enough for 110-130rwkw.

Hen[/b]

I don't think they are that bad. I know someone who ran pvc for the time being with a stock cooler as a front mount. The PVC after the charger melted after 3 hard laps, and the pipe after the cooler was perfectly fine. That said, I couldn't tell you what the intake temps were, might have still been high. But my main point is that not to go too overboard with cooler size, they really don't need it. I am more concerned with the number of people I have seen just running a bridge pipe from charger to intake manifold and even running more boost than standard. To me, that is just plain stupid, but repsonse is awesome LOL. If you can't afford a proper cooler, use atleast a top mount in front mount form. On the gze using pvc, the pipes were made very short, kept around 2" and I saw no signs of hunting idle.

With my current piping and cooler setup, the reponses is pretty bad (mainly due to length of pipe and size of cooler - see my build thread). I might notice the repsonse is crap more than you might due to the fact a lot of my intake components and the head are ported out a little more than standard, just setup for more air which the sc12 can't do. Due to all these large volume bits in my setup as well as the lengthy piping, air velocity would be slowed down a lot. To bring it back up, you would want smaller pipes, but that aint gonna do too much good and probably just restrict air flow.

Anyway, i might just be rambling on about random shit, but that is my experience so far :P

[Gilly]

plan to use the bigport T/B upgrade and keep all piping that similar size, no need to go any bigger IMO, response is the key :)

i see you reading D

input stat!!

[Todd]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Nikkojoe @ Apr 24 2008, 06:36 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=522471)</div>
I am more concerned with the number of people I have seen just running a bridge pipe from charger to intake manifold and even running more boost than standard. To me, that is just plain stupid, but repsonse is awesome LOL. If you can't afford a proper cooler, use atleast a top mount in front mount form.[/b]

i feel a bit silly now seeing as i have a bridge pipe setup, and i am running a bigger pulley worth a couple more psi.
response, yeah, its very nice haha.

and yes it can get hot sometimes, but not very often. only sitting in traffic/stop-start and this is most likely due to still running off of a stock radiator thats buggered.

out of curiosity nikkojoe, what do u think the negatives are of such a setup?
cheers

[Nikkojoe]

Well, the pvc pipe melted at stock boost and was rated to 160DegC.

SC12's efficiency goes down as you spin it more to make more boost and they generally make more heat than anything. So lets say 200DegC into your intake maybe as an estimate? :P

Oh and it doesn't matter about engine temps much, it wont affect that really. Just mainly you don't want 150C+ air into your intake

[Todd]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Nikkojoe @ Apr 24 2008, 07:12 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=522483)</div>
SC12's efficiency goes down as you spin it more to make more boost and they generally make more heat than anything. So lets say 200DegC into your intake maybe as an estimate? :P[/b]


rofl.
point taken.

some info on the best suited cooler/piping arrangement would be worth posting up if anyone has any ideas.

things such as pictures showing layouts/directions of piping.

[Nikkojoe]

Same sided cooler is a good option to avoid running past exhaust (just wrap the cold pipe with insulation to avoid it getting hot) and also helps to keep total travel length of air short.

PVC is good at fabbing/test fitting where to mount your cooler. Also good if you want to get pipes made up, just present your sample and get one copied. Also good to get the car moving too :)

[slide86]

a new guy started at work. hey has an ae82 with an ae101 ZE.

the only mod he has done is the HKS abv mod and he has 10-11 psi. i was watching it tonight as we went for a strap.

the car goes really well, still has the top mount cooler (no hole in the bonnet) and standard exhaust!

[JoshKE]

I am running same sided piping and the stock top mount intercooler front mounted atm. This was put together quick to get the car on the track in time for an event though.

I have a same sided larger aftermarket cooler in my posession though that I am planning to rig up with some nice shiny pipe and all that for the long run.

But yeah, the idea being nice realitively small diameter pipe for the shortest distance possible so minimum volume of air between the s/c and the cylinders. The intercooler is obviously where the vast majority of the volume in the system lies which is how you want it to be really.

Anyway, pic of current set up:
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/2/2/8/2389.jpg

[Sprinterboy]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (riojin @ Apr 23 2008, 03:48 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=521876)</div>
T50's hold up fine aslong as you know how to shift properly.

I'm running the stock ecu which works very well even with a modified engine. apparently aftermarket ecus and gzes are a bitch to tune.

i have a 3inch exhaust system which is using a cat and muffler and its loud. at idle it sounds like a normal 4ag but when you rev it it sounds like a beasty rotary.[/b]

My T50 is going to shit, sounds more like a dog box, which aint a good thing.

I run an autronic SMC, and we had no problems tuning mine, as for others, I've heard about some dramas with a few things

I run an SC14. on 9psi, (with a front mount and various other intake bits ) stock pulleys and I get 143rwkw...


How do you find the exhaust? I need to upgrade my badly, as I've got a 2.5in system with two SHIThouse mufflers and a full cat... I need to make it breath, but still be track/road worthy. there are still noise limits at some of the hillclimbs I do....

[Gilly]

new points to discuss

what is the ABV mod and what does it do?

is it worth switching to aftermarket management? AE101 being the series in question.

thats all..

[us_ae86]

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/9/8/2/5/553825.jpg


:ninja:


.................................... I only have 3 out of 5 left. :ninja:

[Nikkojoe]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Gilly @ Apr 25 2008, 02:06 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=522721)</div>
new points to discuss

what is the ABV mod and what does it do?

is it worth switching to aftermarket management? AE101 being the series in question.

thats all..[/b]


ABV bleeds off boost at a certain level (air bypass valve). ABV mod stops it from bleeding off boost (a required mod if running more boost).

You will see some mild gains with aftermarket management, but better value for money with an sc14 upgrade aswell as aftermarket management :)

[riojin]

the air bypass valve mod removes the abv from the system.

the abv removes air running through the system at a certain point of the system when

a. it goes over a certain psi
b. you depress the throttle.

only remove the abv if you wish to run more boost. you WILL lose throttle response with this mod

if you can afford it like with any other engine, run aftermarket management.

[Nikkojoe]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (riojin @ Apr 25 2008, 07:23 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=522847)</div>
only remove the abv if you wish to run more boost. you WILL lose throttle response with this mod[/b]

Sorry if I'm missing something here, but how would you lose throttle response?

[biggo]

what he said, you would gain throttle response if anything.

I did (started) an ABV mod article on rollaclub back in the day, didnt finish it but it has pics and diagrams.

On the topic of same sided IC's, i have the topmount in FMIC position, can't complain, gets warm but not hot, plus I'm a cheap bastard. However, i did look for an aftermarket kind, BA XR6 turbos have same sided inlet/outlets, only problem is that most are around 75-100mm thick :(

Need more info on how to stop belt slip, so far the bes i can get is run a really realy lose belt, but the boost bounces from 5-7 pound and wont hold

[riojin]

what i meant was the throttle release response. when you are at full throttle and then release the throttle, it will contine to push air through the system seeing the valve has been shut off.

ive never had any problems with belt slips. i guess if youre getting it buy a new belt and tension it tight, but not too tight

[slydar]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Gilly @ Apr 24 2008, 08:46 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=522476)</div>
plan to use the bigport T/B upgrade and keep all piping that similar size, no need to go any bigger IMO, response is the key :)

i see you reading D

input stat!![/b]

never owned one, so my input is pretty much completely opinion, and youve got some good input from actual owners already, but as youve insisted :)

was looking at building one once but it never got off the ground.

i got an sc cheap and lined up some 101 managment off a bloke who was upgrading on his gte.. all was going on a big port (which i think would handle it easy) but it just didnt come together..

they sound cool and when i first got my license and used to do a bit of cruising there was an ipswich racing (primer grey with black ghost coat) 86 that used to murder everyone at the traffic light GP. funny thing ant wired that car, he used to live up the coast too, but years before i met him.

i would keep the 101 management for sure, thats the hot sauce, wouldn't personally run a gze on A/M managment, to me you might as well go turbo if youre gonna change that, and therefore might as well start with a small port or 20v.

on topic i don't think its hard to run them on A/M, the trouble tuning them just comes down to inlet tract length alot of people run who're getting to that stage of development.

to me with a ZE its not about all out power, its about reliable power with good torque that can be engineered into an 86 cheaply if youre smart, and with no need to upgrade the drive line.

that on top of the tuning difficulties when you go front mount.. i would prolly wanna run a top mount/v mount/maybe beside the rad with like a honda radiator (you can get chinese alloy ones for less than $400) with just stock MAP sensor managment and a big pulley.

maybe have the top mount offset with some clver ducting? like where the washer bottle is? or maybe oever near where the battery usually is? dunno really you just need to get the engine and have a real good look at it.

man if you can make it look good though, my hat goes off to you.. it can be done I'm sure.. ive seen one super hot NZ one with a custom intake and shit in NZ performance car before.. those dudes love them (www.garagedori.com?).

NZ tim could point you in the right direction.. he used to run one too.

one engine bay aesthetic/packaging dilemma is alternator. its a bit tricky on them, usually needs to be repositioned, but depends which version of engine you get. so just wait till youre at that stage, once you are you need to go look at 4af's at a few wreckers, do not be fooled, there is like a million different versions of 4a/7afs with all different alternator set ups, that is definitely where i would be looking.

if i was gonna do one i would look at a little weight reduction where ever i can, the sc bracket and all that extra shiz weighs a bit. you can prolly trim a little weight here and there with the ol' 4"

talk to ant.

before the kaizen era he prolly did like 10 million of these in 86s and fwd corollas.. was his bread and butter for a while so he tells me. has a fairly high opinion of them.

[Gilly]

i remember your 4AGE + Z :P plan

i will stick with the AE101 management, to be honest i was only going to switch if i ended up SC14 equipped or GTE. no need to even think of that yet, I'll hang on to the ECU though (Adaptronic from that 20v), don't need to ditch it and it could be handy later.

inlet tract length is the biggest hurdle for me. top mount won't work without bonnet mods (no) V mount won't work either for the same reason and the fact the piping would still be as long as a front mount setup. i actually did look at splitting the radiator "opening" down the middle and using a Honda esque radiator in one half and a cooler in the other but i can't see the radiator being big enough and i have a decent land cruiser radiator here that suits the package too well and sometimes you just want to use that cool part regardless :lol:.

i'm going to have a geez at a small cooler i think will work and with some clever radiator tricks may keep the inlet nice and short. like you said though its hard to package anything without it in front of you so its a way off yet. I've near given up on making it look good, it just won't, clean and neat will have to suffice. they are just too "busy" a motor and hard to simplify, the alternator bracket on the exhaust side is another romance killer.... my 20v would have looked hot as sin in that bay seeing it's holes are filled and all wiring hidden and battery relocated, meh.

on topic of alternator brackets Ando has the best one on his ZE we just have to figure out what its off (most probably what you suggested) it has the tensioner and everything and mounts the alternator about mid height which is passable appearance wise :P

in regards to weight, i hear you, i don't know the difference in figures between GE and ZE but its easy to see where the weight is, one would think hard to remove though, i'll have a good look though ;) i'll be a bit clever with weightin the bay, i may not lose a lot of it but it will be better distributed ;)

[Nikkojoe]

Also, i have found the longest gze loom is the ae101. The ae92 is super short (barely got the 92 to reach to the firewall plug where the normal harness would go, but my 101 loom goes inside the cabin and about 1ft in easy), but that said aw11 might be longer aswell (but its afm and dizzy+coil :/).

Only downer with the 101 is the fuel cut above 1bar boost, other gze's just lean out (but can be modified to compensate). Ive also found ae101 knock sensors are a little TOO sensitive, at 5500rpm it thinks it knocking (but its not) and retards the timing (causing this "hitting a wall" experience"). People end up using a 7mgte knock sensor if they have this problem, seems to only affect ae101's as they have different knock sensor.

[Gilly]

handy info r.e knock sensor!!

thats a pretty high boost level anyway isn't it!! maybe more of a problem for those who run a GTE on AE101 management, which explains the 15psi, 200hp limit i was told about in regards to AE101 ECU's.

i think i'd prefer fuel cut over lean out especially if it was a GTE, nice work toyota ha!

[biggo]

Whats the trick to get stock gze's to hit limiter daily? Ubder load i can seam to make it. Of course i could have a dud motor but evidence points otherwise. The most i got tonight was 6k rpm, not happy

[johl]

what happens to it at 6k? does it literally not rev any higher? thats weird cuz mine doesnt make much power worth going any higher than 6 but it still does it easily right up till the limiter

[slydar]

water to air cooler maybe? like a celica one?

[Nikkojoe]

mine revs to limiter, just sometimes timing retards and it doesn't make much power above 5500rpm, if any at all.

[riojin]

i don't get it mate. you are saying your gze has trouble hitting the limiter?

mine can bounce off the 7250rpm limiter all day everyday under load or not. i actually wish it was higher because i make the most power at around that rpm.

[Nikkojoe]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (riojin @ Apr 27 2008, 12:52 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=523370)</div>
i don't get it mate. you are saying your gze has trouble hitting the limiter?

mine can bounce off the 7250rpm limiter all day everyday under load or not. i actually wish it was higher because i make the most power at around that rpm.[/b]

You refering to me or biggo?

If you are, I never said it had trouble hitting limiter, just the way it got there was crap due to the common knock sensor issue (old toymods have it discussed further and i think also there is a dyno print out somewhere). Today I took it for a run, and it rev'ed to limiter nicely with no issue and felt like it could go more.

[Gilly]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (slydar @ Apr 27 2008, 12:03 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=523318)</div>
water to air cooler maybe? like a celica one?[/b]

had thought of that as well, expensive to buy and it further complicates a busy engine bay. even if you put it where the washer bottle once was the piping length would still be very similar to what i have planned, add to that finding a watercooler that has the outlets where you want them.

i'm actually moving the radiator back further into the engine bay, hopefully around 40-50mm moreso if possible (hard to tell what i can get away with untili have engine mounted but moreso the radiator is it has quite a decent core). this should free up space down low where the supercharger oulet pipe can have a short pipe to the cooler and then the outlet of the cooler will be up near the radiator support so it will also only require a short pipe to the manifold. the cooler at this stage is an R32 stock item that has been modded so the inlet/outlet is where i need them. might not stay but it will suit for the time being.

ally air diversion trays will ensure the cooling efficiency is not affected. another reason i'm sticking with the landcruiser radiator is its over efficiency for that engine, even if airflow is an issue it shouldn't prove a problem.

[johl]

did a fair bit of research today on the abv mod and have some questions.
first of all here is my gze install and where my z32 intercooler sits for the people who r interested (some of the piping has been fixed as there were holes at one stage)
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/168937.jpg
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/168938.jpg
ok so from what i read today with the abv mod i have to plug up the line that comes from the valve to the intake so it can't bleed the excess boost yeh? thats what i have gathered anyway. so for all the kids out there i did a quick drawing in paint of the lines i found when i had a quick look. can anyone point in the right direction as to which line needs to be blocked or if there is more to it than that.

the green line comes from the abv to something on the side of the engine bay where a plug presumably from the ecu plugs into with some type of valve ontop(red+green circle) and then a line (orange)comes out the top and disappeares near the charger as it was too dark to follow it further
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/168939.jpg

[stinger_007]

Coolers.........

Mine (gze,afm,aw11) hunted pretty badlt when i had a stock cooler front mounted.

I changed to longer piping, and fitted a 550x190,76mm cooler behind the front bar.....no more hunting!


next question...
My car has boost when i start it and for about 5mins into a drive with a noisey charger...(i can hear it when i back off),
15 mins later, it doesn't make any boost, and i can no longer here it.. car still runs fine, idle's drives, so i know its not boost leak.

Could it be the elect clutch? or is my charge fried?

anyone got a sc14?

[Nikkojoe]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (johl @ Apr 27 2008, 03:53 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=523457)</div>
ok so from what i read today with the abv mod i have to plug up the line that comes from the valve to the intake so it can't bleed the excess boost yeh? thats what i have gathered anyway. so for all the kids out there i did a quick drawing in paint of the lines i found when i had a quick look. can anyone point in the right direction as to which line needs to be blocked or if there is more to it than that.[/b]

To mod the abv remove both the orange and green lines on the blue vsv. The orange line goes into the intake down a little further, so block that off. The Green line that goes to the abv gets T'ed into a boosted line (ie the line you might have your boost gauge running off).

[johl]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Nikkojoe @ Apr 27 2008, 07:02 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=523481)</div>
To mod the abv remove both the orange and green lines on the blue vsv. The orange line goes into the intake down a little further, so block that off. The Green line that goes to the abv gets T'ed into a boosted line (ie the line you might have your boost gauge running off).[/b]

so i block the orange line off from as close to the intake as possible or near the thing i circled? or is that circled thing called a vsv?
and the green line still runs from the abv to the circled item but i put a t piece in between and run it back into a boosted line?

EDIT: did a bit of searching and know that circled item is a vsv

[Hen is a total nutcase]

To make my frontmount piping easier I ran a narrower radiator (Gemini, they come in 2 and 3core varieties) over toward to passenger side. And ran my cooler pipes through the gap left on the driver's side of the radiator support panel.

Firstly this was with the stock topmount, then with a GZ20 cooler modified to have inlet and outlet on the one side.

Keeps pipes about as short as possible.

Hen

[verm69]

mine has problems hunting, but i don't think it has anything to do with my piping... more my tuning.


to tell the truth, by the looks of both setup pics on here where the pipe's both run to the same side of the ic, my piping doesn't look THAT much longer... and there are so many big bends in the two pictured, where as mine only has 3 small bends...

though i am concerned with the SC lag i might get with my ic... it's the smallest hybrid you can get, but i think i may have to go smaller...

i defiantly think the Air to water cooler would be the best way to go if you could get one gilly... they really don't take that much room, they'll be short on piping, and all you'll really need is a water reservoir, pumps and a little oil cooler plate to keep it cool. And the temps you get from them are FAR superior than air to air

i've never had a problem with the T50, and i don't baby it, but i don't smash it too hard either. It holds up extremely well considering it was originally behind a 4ac :P

[riojin]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Nikkojoe @ Apr 27 2008, 04:24 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=523418)</div>
You refering to me or biggo?[/b]
biggo

[verm69]

oh yeah... another old (not that it's changed) pic of mine for reference...

[attachment=25314:10032006__Medium_.jpg]

[attachment=25315:12032006..._Medium_.jpg]

[Nikkojoe]

Verm, your cooler setup is similar to mine. I hate it personally but cbf changing it. More than anything, id say your lag is due to the massive cooler (same size as mine).

I found with my cooler after a spirited run, the inlet would be hot as and 1/3-1/2 the way it would be ice cold (and the same to the other side). So something half the size would be perfect imo.

[Tyrie]

I got my GZE with autronic SMC, decent size fmic (2" piping), 50mm TB, extractors and 2.5" exhaust, it ran like a pig and was slow. I then got a NST 180mm pulley kit and a tune, it still idled shit and was slow, so I ditched the sc12 and put an old Nissan T3 on, and it makes 36rwkw more on the same boost, starts and drives smooth as like a normal car, sounds infinately better (no more raspy gay exhaust sound) etc. And the T50 has so far survived a couple of track days (supercharged and turbo) with some harsh shifting :2thumbs: .

In conclusion, turbo is better than sc12. :greenbounce:

[riojin]

people who go gze want torque. people who go gte want power.
some crazy bastard went gzte for both but lets not get into that.

[Tyrie]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (riojin @ Apr 28 2008, 04:15 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=523818)</div>
people who go gze want torque. people who go gte want power.
some crazy bastard went gzte for both but lets not get into that.[/b]


meh the numbers didnt mean much to me, I just wanted a faster overall car that was more friendly to drive, I got that by losing the supercharger.

[verm69]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Nikkojoe @ Apr 28 2008, 01:49 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=523758)</div>
Verm, your cooler setup is similar to mine. I hate it personally but cbf changing it. More than anything, id say your lag is due to the massive cooler (same size as mine).

I found with my cooler after a spirited run, the inlet would be hot as and 1/3-1/2 the way it would be ice cold (and the same to the other side). So something half the size would be perfect imo.[/b]

i haven't been able to drive it yet with this cooler set up, so i can't really tell you if i have sc lag or not, but i am considering going a smaller ic for sure... i thought i would have been small enough, but then i got it put it on and thought "oh shit... it looks too big!"

[driftke70]

i have a gen 3 3sgte celica water to air cooler lying around if someone would like to make use of it. Apparently when used with said motor 300kw is an easy task for stock cooler.

[Gilly]

shotty mr Beal

i have bits here you want, it would be worth grabbing to see if it could be made workable

[riojin]

thought id add some pictures of my small, hidden front mount.

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/board/uploads/post-3540-1209429861.jpg
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/board/uploads/post-3540-1209429894.jpg

its a custom job done by the guys pros who did my conversion. its the same lenght and height as the front grille. no lag with the charger.

also been driving my car since i got it back. apparently i only get hunting idle when the engine is cold which is nice. i have a bigport throttle body sitting here but i cbf to do the conversion right now.

[biggo]

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/board/in...showtopic=31170 (http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/board/index.php?showtopic=31170)

just thought id link this thread aswell

[biggo]

http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/4269/p3190144nr3.jpg

[Nikkojoe]

Old pics:

sort of can see the fmic
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/1/1/0/1401.jpg

Old pic of bay, a few things have changed but generally not much (igniter has been moved to back of head)
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/1/1/0/1403.jpg

[Mr Freeky]

this isn't a technical question about 4A-GZEs but i just finish my conversion and i was wondering how it went in the wet with all low down torque or if it rain you just don't drive it?

[riojin]

whenever I'm driving i only ever push my throttle the slightest bit regardless of the weather. anymore than that it spins in 1st. i do this to save fuel.

when I'm having a go I'm never over 3rd gear because my 3rd gear goes up to and maybe over 150km. it wheelspins 1st through 3rd gear if i boot it and stops when i shift to 4th.

you get used to driving it in the wet, just don't boot it unless you wanna slide

[verm69]

i pretty much idle in the wet... mine wanted to step out all the time, ESPECIALLY in the wet...

i.e... pulled out of my street, turned left, the road i turned onto has a slight camber (high on passanger side, low on the divers side). There was a dude washing his car, so there was water going accross the road. I took off normally, went across the water and it steped out... would be partially due to the camber in the road and my shitty low suspention, but mine steps out in the wet real easily...


and hill starts are a prick :P

[Nikkojoe]

too easy to drop 4th in the wet lol.

But yeah, 1st-3rd gets me wheel spin on boost

[DavisJD]

Agreee with wet weather, + light rear weight + torque = death

You really have to grandma them in the wet unless your trying to step it out, or it will bite you.

[biggo]

anyone got some more info?

Just found out ive killed an SC belt already, might get the proper size one this time.

Another tip on converting, for the SC outlet out can flip it and gazket goo, drill out a few holes and it works fine. Also 20c coins fit perfect in the abv hole.

umm, i want my BIG pulley now!

[biggo]

ZOMG!!!!

ive posted 2008 times!!!!!!

[verm69]

ZOMG! 2008!



how much boost you planning to run? more than 13-14 and i'd look into the SC14 upgrade...

[Nikkojoe]

I will be selling my crank pulley setup in the next month or two (as stated before, 175-180mm custom pulley which would make 14psi on my setup if my cooler was smaller). AFM should get 13-14psi with it, map possibly 15-16psi but might overspin it. Will come with belt and tensioner pulley needed, but looking at offers in the $400range (the going rate).

Also for people who upgrage their crank pulley to 175mm style, the belt tensioner pulley that fits directly on is off a hyundai. Apparently its an a/c idler pulley, but its the perfect size. The Nuline part no. is EP016, and you should be able to get it from most auto shops. The belt you need is a 5PK975 but a 5PK990 also works.

[MARKE70]

mmmkay, i've only ever drove my GZE so i can't really compare to stock or anything like that. My cooler setup is same as Verm69's piping if anything a bit longer actually, but i have a stock Galant VR4 cooler bit smaller than the above pictured ones but much larger then the top/side mounts being suggested. And honestly i can't see my car getting much more responsive then it is. I can pretty much stop whilst following slower cars at archerfield in second gear and jost put the foot down no clutch no bullshit, she just revs. So i think maybe the tiny cooler/fuck all piping thing is probably not neccesary. It has got the ABV thing too however.

GZE's confuse me in terms of there performance i see other stock ones that clutch kick everywhere and seem to struggle holding a slide but i can't keep mine straight. There just seems to be a crazy inconsistency in their performance.

Interesting thread Gilly great idea.

I am in the very near future getting A/M management most likely adaptronic, Pulley kit (planning on 13PSI excluding 1 PSI for cooler) - with sc12 still, the NA TB conversion and a W box set up.

Super excited to see how it all goes,

[Nikkojoe]

Sure if I'm putting my foot down while driving, it will go ONCE it boosts up. In the time i put my foot down, it takes almost a second before the boost stops increasing rapidly. Its fast, but does not feel fast as the delivery of pull is a bit slow and gradual until when you let off you actually feel it (if you understand what I'm saying :P)

I'm not expecting to put my foot down and then it just chirps the gear and explodes my t50, but id rather get the response time reduced to about the .5ms mark :)

[biggo]

i get excited downstairs when i put my foot down!

[verm69]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (MARKE70 @ May 3 2008, 08:25 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=526106)</div>
I am in the very near future getting A/M management most likely adaptronic, Pulley kit (planning on 13PSI excluding 1 PSI for cooler) - with sc12 still, the NA TB conversion and a W box set up.[/b]

sounds like the set up i'm going to have, but with a microtech and X4, bosch coils, flowed and worked head, bigger cams, adj cam gears, a little more compression... so it's not actually anything like your set up! :lol: but i will have the TB upgade, 13psi and the SC12... leaving it T50 until it breaks :P

[biggo]

meh i never saw the point in a worked motor

i just make the car faster in other ways, like take a dump before i drive!

[riojin]

so youd be getting about 10-15kg weight reduction from this mod you speak of? :teehee:

[Driftspec]

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/3/553846.jpg

Pinned :)

[Gilly]

:lol: no wonder i couldn't find it at first

[Trumps]

Hi Guys, I've had the 4agze (Just rebuilt), in my 86 for 11 years on a standard T50 with 110RWKW. Had no drama's. I have also pissed the standard intercooler off and moved a bigger one to the front, l am currently debating whether l should put a T28 Turbo on or go for the Nevo kit and the charger off the 1ggze. Does anyone know what the expected power gains would be with both over the current set up?

[JoshKE]

Sprinterboy in the ACT is getting 147rwkw from an sc14, his plenum etc is very nice though, and he has aftermarket management... Have a look at his build thread to see whats invloved

[verm69]

i've talked to people who went from SC to turbo and they said they wished they had done it well before they did...


but i guess it depends what you want from it... if your just chasing power figures, go turbro... if you want torque go SC14, though i've heard it's a bit of a big job...

[JoshKE]

Yup, definitely a big job, lol...

The SC14 isn't just a slightly larger SC-12... its a completely different blower

[70XIN]

Go turbo.

Even if you are worried about 'lag', just get a GTR based twin turbo (small exhaust AR), or HKS GT2510 as the ultimately powerful response warrior

[Trumps]

There's another guy around town that is running the larger version, although l think l would rather go turbo. I have been running a Microtech MT8 since they came out, although the gameboy hand controller is a bit of a bummer. My ultimate aim is to chase up a nice body kit, full respray and get 180-200 rwkw. Rajab racing in Melbourne is the tuner l use, and he recently got 220rwkw from the turbo 4agze, atleast according to him. He does build some wicked fast VL's, the boy really knows his shit. Money money money.

[Nikkojoe]

With either the sc14 or going turbo, its a lot better than the sc12. At the same level of boost, both will probably yield the same amount of power, but the turbo probably will work out cheaper and neater. A bit of fab work is required with the sc14 and turns out a bit messy imo. That said, the driveability of the sc14 would be probably better than a turbo

Depends what you are after :)

[Trumps]

Hmm...... Maybe i'll go back to Rajab Racing and to get some costings, i'll probably have to ditch the T50 though. If l go to a W58 box, how do you get a bell housing or adaptor plate for it. Can you buy them off the shelf or do they have to becustom built? Also, where can l get a lightened flywheel from? I can't find anyone around here that can help.

[verm69]

http://www.niteparts.co.nz/ do a 4a to W bell housing. Not sure if they're still operational... i can't remember how much they are...

[Trumps]

Thanks, i'll hunt around the net for em.

[Gilly]

well i'm half way there

AE101ZE in stock. most of the oil is on the outside of the engine but it ran sweet dead cold this morning with no smoke and a niceish idle so i'm happy with that. loom is already sorted and whilst tatty is very simple which is favourable (5 external wires to hookup)

has a big pulley and a interesting J pipe cooler bypass pipe :lol: need to get the supercharger outlet modded to suit RWD and moreso to meet up with a cooler. intake cast pipe needs spacing up to clear the TPS but i'm switching to Big port throttle straight away so that does away with that concern.

needs some gaskets and those fiddly bits sorted and its ready for a good clean up. good news is i've found i can remove prety much all the extra vacuum hoses and just run one between MAP, inlet mani, ABV and fuel reg :)

not really any input to this thread just ramblings

as a side note at least i can now dummy fit and toy with cooler and radiator positioning

[biggo]

your not doing the ABV mod?

i reccomend it before everything gets "cluttered" hehehe, we all know how gzes make a mess.

[Gilly]

ABV mod is done, still needs one vacuum line to it though doesn't it? just need to ditch the solenoids?

i thought it still needed one connected as it uses the vacuum signal to dump boost on gear changes etc, pardon my ignorance if it doesn't i have done little research into the ABV and its purpose.

this setup has about 4,000 vacuum lines but as i pulled it all apart this morning i found all to be blocked off :lol:

if the ABV is completely disabled does it need to remain in place? could one theoritically remove it all together or is it used for another purpose other than a boost restrictor.

i assume it has another purpose everyone leaves it on the engine rather than just removing it completely and blanking the hole it would leave behind if removed.

also whats is the solenoid that sits on top of the charger? it has a vacum line to one end of the charger and another to the opposite end. i should get a pic, looks weird and i can't work out for the life of me what it does

[slide86]

i have just removed my ABV all together and made custom inlet and outlets for the s/c.

i don't think it will be a drama to just remove it and blank the hole over

[Gilly]

sweet i'll do that

another 300grams saved :lol:

[gaz20v]

any chances of prics of peoples alternator setups? bought an ae92 bracket and need ideas for tensioner setups.

[Nikkojoe]

if you are lazy and you have stock sway bars, you can use the standard ac/alternator bracket. The only thing is you need the compressor to be bolted on so the belt can be tensioned :)

[biggo]

For thos who think AFM/Dizzy Gzes are inferior, think again.

Ive had a few problems with mine, nothing major however it kept wanting to run stupidly lean. So i got drunk one night and my mate gave me an AFM adjuster (like a cheap AFC, only....not) 5mins after i had it in and hoohay i have stuffed plugs hehehe.

Having said that, i think Nikko runs an AFM Gze but with a ae101 loom. Anything can be done if you make it work :)

[callum1]

i figured this is a good place to post this.

how the crap do i get off the pulley wheel. i assume its some sort of special tool. not just the big bolt in the middle.
I'm goin turbo, so yea getting rid of the nevo.

[johl]

getting rid of the nevo eh?
*cough*sell it to me *cough*

[tetsujin]

My late spec 4agze conversion on a Black Limited AE86.

I didnt do the conversion (bought it from Japan like that) and I don't know much about them technically but I do know this one was far faster than my pretty std 4age largeport and ran ALOT hotter too. Id recommend a oil coiler too as it reduced my oil temp to a useable level, and piping over the top of the engine gets HOT! :D

Was 185 bhp and 166 flt tourque.

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/170273.jpg
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/170274.jpg
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/170275.jpg

[verm69]

... god dam you and you kick ass cars tetsujin... both of them are fucking pimp

[johl]

u have a black limited? omfg! if u don't mind me asking how much did u pay for her?

[verm69]

one billion dollarrrrs!

[johl]

why have trillions when u can have...........





billions?

[ke kid]

anyone considered a gilmer drive system for your SC? It would fix any belt slip problems.

maybe someone can make one out of an old timing belt and pulleys.... :P

[tetsujin]

I got the Black limited in early 2005.

I payed £9000 for it and it wasnt perfect (condition, slipping clutch, needed an oil cooler, bit of rust etc)

that works out at approx $18,500 of you AUS dollars :D

Only had it about 4 months and then got rid and started a KP Starlet project instead.

[verm69]

your crazy... NO ONE gets rid of a black limited... crazy...

[johl]

let alone one with a ze. did u make ur money back on it when u sold it?

[tetsujin]

Sort of, I put about £800 into it after buying it, then I sold it and maybe lost about that.

I didnt sell it complete, I sold it with a few parts missing so that I could sell them on to add up the price.

Was a great car, just I never really had the cash to buy it in the first place so, when I did own it, I had NO money to do anything with it! :D

[slide86]

id like to discuss CAM selection for a ZE

i have a bigport head with microtech, 14psi, 440 injectors, fmic, exhaust, larger throttle body and some other shit (engine rebuilt along with head)

i want to build another head with a decent set of valve springs and cams with some minor port work. I'm looking at going-

inlet: 264 duration 8.35mm lift
exhaust: 256 duration 8.1mm lift

i know bout overlap in forced induction engines and so forth.....

id like to hear other peoples experiences and ideas for cam selection, and should i swap to a smallport head??

[Gilly]

on topic of cams,

anyone using bigport cams in a smallport ZE??

[verm69]

i will be soon, i'll let you know how it goes :2thumbs:

it supposed to be a very good upgrade as they aren't too lumpy, but open the top a little bit.




as for slides question, i'm not entirely sure... i KNOW sam will be able to answer... he know EVERYTHING in the world, no joke ;)

[Gilly]

thread reviver

firstly a factoid: my ZE has an inlet measuring 1.3 metres, thats from supercharger inlet to that pipe on the inlet manifold. uses a J pipe so there is no cooler. would be interesting to find out everyones length (not gay at all was it ) maybe then you could see at what distance the ZE starts to ply up idle wise ;)

whats everyone doing for alternator mounting brackets?? i need a mid or low mount bracket as my extractors come forward at no 1 and rules out the high mount setup i was going to use.

can the stock ZE bracket be used at all?? i really only need it mounted to the block as i have my own tensioner setup in the works, the alternator body would be pulled pretty close to the block so would it be workable, what exactly fouls the swaybar?. would be good to see whats used commonly.

[slide86]

mine had the factory setup which puts the alternator at the bottom and the A/C compressor above it.

i want to change it to the mid mount setup, i believe there is a write up on club4ag.com with a genuine part number for the bracket

i shall measure my pipes and cooler and update

[Gilly]

yeah the pic i was looking at was a USDM 86 so the compressor was low and the alternator mod, was doing my head in as to why people couldn't get it to work :lol:

let the USDM bracket hunting begin!!

[johl]

^^^^atleast ur current engine bay isnt cramped gilly

[slide86]

so are those 2 brackets seperate?

[Nikkojoe]

I think my alternator bracket was the standard gze one chopped in half and flipped upside down (so the pivot point is at the top, not the bottom) and then some custom slider bits.

Gilly, I really hope you don't plan on running no cooler for too long, anything around the stock size is better than nothing.

Oh and ive found that a standard gates belt stops chronic belt slip. Bosch and dayco seem to stretch way too easily.

[biggo]

http://www.nonstoptuning.com/pKitToyMR2GZ.htm

some big pulley kit i found

my total IC length is under 2m, in the early days it had hunting problems but now they gone. And i don't know where hehe.

[Gilly]

that engine pic isn't mine just a google image :P

i'm running a cooler, no doubt about it!! the J pipe was just what was with it in its old state.

i would love to see pics of brackets and more specifically what they are off. interested in the stock flipped one, i'll check your members thread and see if theres pics. its the last hurdle really.

[Nikkojoe]

I'll try and take a pic today (but i never made the bracket on mine, but it looks almost factory :) ).

But yeah, there is one of my engine sitting on the tyre....

[gaz20v]

For my alternator bracket i ended up using a 4afe bottom bracket and home made tensioner.

For the GZE alternator to fit into the 4afe bracket i had to get busy with the grinder, i took near enough on 10mm off the body of the alternator to squeeze it into the bottom bracket, helped along with some over grindage and washers to space/ align the pulley (call me dodgy but hey, it should do the job).

for the tensioner i used a length of steel strapping, i attached one end using the same bolt that the bottom bracket uses (front one) and bend into an S like shape to meet up at the top with a tensioner bracket off a 4ac. once alligned to match the pivot point of the alternator i cut some flat steel to have welded to the sides to hold its strength.

The pics show it but might be hard to get the whole idea. It hasnt been tested running as yet but by the looks/ feel of it its going to hold the tension on the belt quite nicley

[Roo]

not sure if this has been answerd couldnt be bother reading the whole thread

what the best size cooler to get, just a stock 4agze (map) with 12psi pulley piping goes over engine

[70XIN]

400 x XXX x 70/100 is about all you'll need

And when you do the sensible thing of upgrading to turbo, it'll still be sweet

Just make sure the intercooler is up the front, not over the engine :teehee:

[Nikkojoe]

id say like 300x280x70/100 for the sc12.......

The bigger it is, the longer you gotta wait for the sc12 to fill the space

[Roo]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (70XIN @ Jun 9 2008, 11:44 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=543732)</div>
400 x XXX x 70/100 is about all you'll need

And when you do the sensible thing of upgrading to turbo, it'll still be sweet

Just make sure the intercooler is up the front, not over the engine :teehee:[/b]
yea my 4agze came with cooler piping to the front so i think i got that coverd

why do all the cheap jobbies have to be 600 x 300 x 76

[biggo]

nissans think bigger is better. Probably why the always blow up hahaha

so i rebuilt a motor yesterday, gze 8.9cr pistons are hemi compared to 4age ones which are pretty flattops. Rods look the same to me.

[aaron_drift]

Hey guys,

just a quick comment on coolers and piping.

I've got a ze with razor back ecu and sc14, so does my mate david.

Pretty much same setup, but:

My intercooler is huge and has long piping.

Daves intercooler is quite small (its a soarer intercooler) and short piping.

Cars both put out same hp rating, mine has slightly more torque.

So i ain't sure if a smaller cooler makes much difference.

My car has got no lag and goes hard.

Cheers

Aaron.

[johl]

yeh but u r running an sc14. i don't think u would notice it as much. I'm sure if u changed it u would notice it tho. i don't think it will make a major difference either way in all honesty

[riojin]

someone SHOULD buy this

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/board/in...c=32379&hl= (http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/board/index.php?showtopic=32379&hl=)

i would much prefer this over the standard 4agze. i can sell less issues with this on a rwd setup than the standard 4agze.

[dustyae86]

safe rev limit of a GZE, discuss!! and no I'm not tlaking yeh I rev mine to 7500 every day, but I blow it up every few weeks.
Mine stops making power at about 6200rpm, but it starts sounding really restrictive there

[riojin]

when i still had mine with the nevo and standard ae92 ecu i used to rev it all the way to the limiter, 7250rpm. i would shift at about 7000rpm if i was watching and didnt hit the limiter. it kept making power all the way to the limiter thats why i hit it most of the time.

[Nikkojoe]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (riojin @ Jun 10 2008, 11:00 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=543865)</div>
someone SHOULD buy this

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/board/in...c=32379&hl= (http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/board/index.php?showtopic=32379&hl=)

i would much prefer this over the standard 4agze. i can sell less issues with this on a rwd setup than the standard 4agze.[/b]


If i wasn't going turbo, i would have considered it but its too late now :P.

I wouldn't use that exact setup though, I would probably just use the charger off it and custom mount it so I could run a cooler (though its a pretty big charger :P)

[Roo]

hey quick questions about flywheels and clutches

what size flywheel do you run for t50?

my 4agze has no clutch or flywheel and just want something that will be hold a 4agze with abit more boost

[gaz20v]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Roo @ Jun 10 2008, 07:12 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=544095)</div>
hey quick questions about flywheels and clutches

what size flywheel do you run for t50?

my 4agze has no clutch or flywheel and just want something that will be hold a 4agze with abit more boost[/b]


i got a 20v flywheel and clutch from Kaizen for mine.

[biggo]

212mm fly

i have a 200mm and it will slip no hassles is i want it to. Now I'm going pet snails, ill have to sort it out again

[jamekins]

just a quick question

i'm looking at buying a sprinter with a 4AGZE in it. I think the engine has done somewhere around 200,000 k's and it doesn't have an intercooler on it. :blink: I'm hopefully getting a compression test done this week and if that goes well I may buy it. the guy is asking $5k for it and I'm just wondering if the engine is at a high risk of kicking the bucket after I buy it? And are there any problems I should look out for?

[Gilly]

get a comp test that should be the main deciding factor as well as overall condition of the 86 body (rust etc)

i just bought a ZE package recently and it also ran no intercooler, it will have one when i put it to use but its not enough of a factor to sway one from buying it ;)

5K sounds like a good deal for a ZE 86

[Gilly]

well i have located my intercooler

SW20 MR2 sidemount intercooler, will be front mounted obviously. only marginally larger than the stock ZE cooler but the piping layout is better for me, with the inlet pipe with a 90* bend rather than the straight pipe of the stock ZE cooler. 2 inch piping as well which keeps everything the same size. much of a muchness really between this and a stock AE101 cooler this was very cheap so that was the clincher haha!

still have the want for a MK3 supra cooler as they look to be ideal in size and layout ;) keen to see how well the MR2 item works first though

[slide86]

similar to this one?

[attachment=27065:dsc02131js5.jpg]

[Gilly]

i think thats a GZ10 cooler you have there or GZ20 or some shit, there is actually heaps of those local to me in a bargain crate :lol: i wanted to keep the pipework on the drivers side so the single sided cooler for me was a must. soaree coolers have a decent core though!

MK3 7MGTE cooler has same sided pipework

as seen here :P

[slide86]

oh yeah, i want one of those...

(jumps on yahoo and starts bidding :))

edit: 2 mins later and ive found one. 150 bucks, it looks brand new

[verm69]

i had a cooler like that, but with the inlet and outlet on opposite sides... it was inefficient piece of crap... had a hole in it, so i was loosing boost, and cooled as well as a sandwich... so i got the smallest hybrid i could get... but i'm scared it will still be too big! :S

thats it... i'm PM'ing justin now to get a price on ACL head studs... going to order them next week... need to get this piece of shit going again...

[XaeRob]

I'm doing a GZE conversion at the moment, had to take out my alternator as it was too low and hit on the anti roll bar :( had anyone else got power steering on their GZE? I took out air con thankfully and wish power steering went as well as there is just no room for the alternator.

[jamekins]

Yet another 4agze noob question.

Any one know where I can aquire a service manual for one of these puppy's? Cause I'm getting a gze on monday and wouldn't mind being able to service it.

[biggo]

you don't need a manual to service a motor

but if that fails, GE manuals will suffice

[johl]

what do u need the manual for? or are you talking about servicing the super charger itself?

[jamekins]

Basically I want to be able to be able to know how the engine is put together so that when problems arise (i.e. my current coolant leak) I have a better chance of fixing them propperly the first time. Also my dad, who will do most of the work on it with me, would like it as a referance.

[verm69]

what ZE do you have? is it from a aw11 or a Ae101... or do you have an air flow meter on it?

[Roo]

hey 4agzers

i got some newbie questions

i just dropped my 4agze (believe its a ae92 map sensor) in my ke70 and started to wire it up and i can't find anywhere where these plugs go
and ideas?
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/172322.jpg
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/172323.jpg


also my throttle body doesn't have any vacuum hoses so can you tell me where they go i numbered them to make it abit easier, also where does my map vaccum hose go to?
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/172324.jpg

and where do the vaccum hoses go from this?
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/172325.jpg

cheers

[biggo]

in the first pic, 2 is the SC clutch plug. looks like yours is cut.

that sensor is the air intake temp.

3rd pic -

3 - crank case breather
4- goes to the blue vsv
5+6 look like cold start lines, but theyre in a different spot that mine?
7 - Air bypass valve, looks like yours is plated up? Grab some 1in hose and fill it with 20cent coins and gasket goo.

[Roo]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (biggo @ Jun 25 2008, 08:50 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=552070)</div>
in the first pic, 2 is the SC clutch plug. looks like yours is cut.

that sensor is the air intake temp.

3rd pic -

3 - crank case breather
4- goes to the blue vsv
5+6 look like cold start lines, but theyre in a different spot that mine?
7 - Air bypass valve, looks like yours is plated up? Grab some 1in hose and fill it with 20cent coins and gasket goo.[/b]
ok i cheers

yea that done some modding the thottle body is goes straight to the charger and the manifold is all welded up, also runs a bov
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/172373.jpg

[jamekins]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (VeRm69 @ Jun 24 2008, 09:37 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=551456)</div>
what ZE do you have? is it from a aw11 or a Ae101... or do you have an air flow meter on it?[/b]
air flow meter for me

[verm69]

then it's most likley an aw11


i have MAP! :D

latest version of the ze :2thumbs:

[XaeRob]

Just to clarify...

For the ABV Mod (gold circle thing about 6cm diameter), can I take out that whole unit, put a plate over to block it, and block the 1" tube that goes from the inlet area into it as well? will it have no effect?

Reason I ask is I have fmic relocation pipes which pushes my abv out so it doesn't actually fit in the engine bay anymore :(

[Nikkojoe]

Yep, remove it and plate it up will have the same effect as the abv vac line mod (except more reliable).

[jamekins]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (VeRm69 @ Jun 26 2008, 11:01 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=552698)</div>
then it's most likley an aw11


i have MAP! :D

latest version of the ze :2thumbs:[/b]

Well this conversion is quite old the GZE has been in the car longer than the original 4AC was :P

And I'm basically looking for an MR2 manual am I? sweet thanks

[Gilly]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Roo @ Jun 25 2008, 04:37 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=552231)</div>
ok i cheers

yea that done some modding the thottle body is goes straight to the charger and the manifold is all welded up, also runs a bov
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/172373.jpg[/b]

keen to see a decent pic of your setup, as in pic of the engine bay so i can see the lot.

is your throttle body now after the supercharger or still before like factory setups?

pics are doing my head in as to why it would have the need for a bov as it appears the throttle body is still before the supercharger

the bov thing threw me and now i'm ultra curious as to what they have done to your setup, it looks modified but still in the stock layout

[Roo]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Gilly @ Jun 26 2008, 10:14 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=553116)</div>
keen to see a decent pic of your setup, as in pic of the engine bay so i can see the lot.

is your throttle body now after the supercharger or still before like factory setups?

pics are doing my head in as to why it would have the need for a bov as it appears the throttle body is still before the supercharger

the bov thing threw me and now i'm ultra curious as to what they have done to your setup, it looks modified but still in the stock layout[/b]
i just messaged the guy that i brought it from he said he welded it up to change it ready for turbo but then got

it looks like its still factory setup, thottle body then charger then intercooler and back to the manifold

this is the piping for it
[attachment=27597:4agze_pipes.JPG]

[Gilly]

thanks, i can rest easy now :lol:

there is actually no need for that bov there but he may have done that for the turbo conversion. quick tip, get in touch with ant of Kaizen garage and get one of his modified S/C outlet pipes, basically instead of the pipe going up towards the cam cover it comes straight out of the charger allowing you to run much shorter pipework. would be a shame to cut up that nicely made pipework though :lol: doing this mod you would easily lose half a metre of pipework.

[Roo]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Gilly @ Jun 26 2008, 10:41 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=553138)</div>
thanks, i can rest easy now :lol:

there is actually no need for that bov there but he may have done that for the turbo conversion. quick tip, get in touch with ant of Kaizen garage and get one of his modified S/C outlet pipes, basically instead of the pipe going up towards the cam cover it comes straight out of the charger allowing you to run much shorter pipework. would be a shame to cut up that nicely made pipework though :lol: doing this mod you would easily lose half a metre of pipework.[/b]
yea i thought that might be the case with the bov, looks like i will get another intake manifold and see about that s/c outlet pipe

also just got told its a afm bigport 4agze running 4agze smallport map loom and computer <_<

[verm69]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Jamekins @ Jun 26 2008, 05:21 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=552896)</div>
Well this conversion is quite old the GZE has been in the car longer than the original 4AC was :P

And I'm basically looking for an MR2 manual am I? sweet thanks[/b]

pretty much, if it has an AFM your looking for a MR2 manual.

thats a pretty interesting set up you have there Roo... but Definatly do what gilly said, get a SC outlet that points forward and you'll loose HEAPS of ic piping... or you can do what i did... cut the standard one, point it straight and weld it! :lol:

and loose the BOV if you don't have the TB after the SC, there's no use for it...

[Roo]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (VeRm69 @ Jun 27 2008, 10:06 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=553288)</div>
pretty much, if it has an AFM your looking for a MR2 manual.

thats a pretty interesting set up you have there Roo... but Definatly do what gilly said, get a SC outlet that points forward and you'll loose HEAPS of ic piping... or you can do what i did... cut the standard one, point it straight and weld it! :lol:

and loose the BOV if you don't have the TB after the SC, there's no use for it...[/b]
yea I'm going to get mine modded to face forward, and get rid of that bov i don't know why it was put on in the first place

[jamekins]

Quick question. Is there an easy way to get to the oil pressure sender? (i.e without taking out the AC) The lead from it has come off.

[Nikkojoe]

Nope, did the same thing once before :P

Good luck :)

[slide86]

what heat range spark plugs are best to use?

I'm looking at HKS ones and want to know what heatrange would suit a ZE running 13-15psi. only running on BP ultimate.....

[Todd]

i have hks plugs in mine at the moment and they seem better than the ngk iridiums i used to run. not too sure on specs but theyr worth the dollars i think

[johl]

thinking about buying a new ze. i'l list up the specs and you guys tell me how much you would pay for it and ifi would need to do any more mods to keep it running day in day out.
4A-GZE from an AE101
HEAD
latest model 16 valve small port head
complete port and polish
flowed 236hp @ 300 thou lift
valve seats oversized and drilled with a 3 angle seat for better flow and seal
aftermarket valves to suit new seats (also had the valves sprayed up with a special aluminum oxide spray for even better heat resistance)
upgraded valve springs
4A-GE Naturally Aspirated cam shafts (a fraction more duration and another half milimetre of lift Vs. standard cams)
shaved 5 thou off the head
TRD 0.8mm head gasket
ARP head studs

BOTTOM END
latest model 4A block
7 rib design (the strongest of all the 4A blocks)
factory oil squirters (the only 4A to have these)
block had all castings smoothed over and all major 'dags' removed for cleaner / faster / cooler oil return
block was acid bathed
bores were lightly honed
crank shaft was crack tested / nitrated / linished & acid bathed
crank, rods & pistons were machined/ matched / balanced
rods were shot peened
ACL race series piston rings
TRD main bearings
ARP main bolts
block was shaved 5 thou

EXTRAS
NEVO 175mm overdrive pulley kit (roughly 20psi)
Toyota SC14 supercharger (bigger then the standard S/C, previously off a 1G-GTE)
Modified throttle body & intake set up (now suitable for a RWD applications)
Every gasket and seal was replaced with genuine toyota items
1 1/4 inch extractors coated with an extra heavy duty aluminum oxide coating (works better then heat wrapping and HPC etc)
3 inch exhaust system, with a cannon muffler
Injectors have been cleaned and flowed
Inlet manifold has been sand blasted for improved flow
external coilpacks with custom 10.5mm ignition leads
Radiator & standard Intercooler is also included
T50 gearbox
Rebuilt Xtreme 4 puck organic clutch, retensioned pressure plate (designed for street driving, but very capable for drifting)
the entire loom & ECU is also included.
the motor itself is BRAND NEW and hasnt had a single KM racked up onto it.



go.

[slide86]

the T50 will last 17.34 seconds

you would want an aftermarket ecu to make the best of it

[orange32]

I'd say around $3500


lol

[Nikkojoe]

I think an 175mm pulley will be too much for an sc14 and could destroy the charger. Something like a 165mm would be tops i think......

[johl]

yeh I'm only thinking about buying it and i don't plan on putting it in straight away as obviously i need a w5x and hilux diff. and yeh it will definately need after market ecu. just wondering what people think its worth

[Todd]

id say somewhere in the region of 3500-4000 for that package everything included.
theres alot of money been spent there.

[johl]

any tech heads have an estimate of how much power she'd be putting out? mainl interested in a torque figure or even if anyone has a dyno sheet with an sc14 equipped ze would be good? long shot but meh

[Nikkojoe]

Stock ecu and injectors are a limiting factor i think. 130rwkw in its current form with the potential of 150rwkw with aftermarket ecu and better injectors.

Just don't go running it with the nevo whatever you do. It would overspin the charger (sc14's don't need to spin fast to make boost).

[aaron_drift]

Need someone smart to help me.

Anyone got a manual for a AE101 ZE motor?

Or directions to remove/install a CAS - crank angle sensor.

Bought one, cause i think its the source of my motor problems. just now need to know how to put it in.

Cheers

Aaron.

[Nikkojoe]

1.Take off the oil filler cap on the cam cover.

2. Turn the crank shaft to the zero marking (the pin which sticks out above the crankpulley) and line up with the notch on the crank pulley. Look through the oil filler cap to the cam shaft to make sure the dimple is directly at top dead center. If no dimple is visible, turn the crank a further 360deg until you see it.

3. Unplug and unbolt the dizzy/cas. There is a dimple/hole you line it up with, make a note of how it is when you pull it out.

4. Line up the dimple/hole on the dizzy/cas then keeping it straight, insert it back into the head

5. Bolt it up, use timing light to set the timing properly.

[aaron_drift]

Cheers for that info mate.

[Intense]

Hey I got a problem with mine at the moment and i suspect the map sensor is at fault. It won't idle properly, basicly almost stalls then revs then almost stalls again, has no power and feels like it only has 5% throttle regardless of the pedal position.

So can someone with a map sensor gze just get their car warmed up, turn it off, unplug the map sensor and start it and let me know if it has the same idle problem as mine? Cheers

[johl]

mine did that but all that happened was a loose spark plug lead as the clip has come off. but I'm sure you've already checked this before posting?

[Intense]

yeah checked all the obvious stuff, definatly running on 4 cylinders

[Nikkojoe]

Check ecu fault codes.

[Intense]

going into toyospares tomorow, will have it fixed

[hugh]

Heres a question..I've read through the entire post but people have only touched on the subject of how hot a 4agze will run.
In my ae71, i currently have a JDM bigport 4age. I'm assuming it is stock radiator with a thermo, and the engine never goes above a third on my temp gauge. My question is, how high on the temp gauge can it go with a 4agze as I know they run a lot hotter than NA, until i get worried. I would assume anything over half, I should start to worry but you guys might know better. The reason I ask, is I have no idea if my radiator/fan will be sufficient so I guess once I have my 4agze in, I'll take it for a drive and see how it goes...

[johl]

well when i took mine to the track it was bouncing off limiter alot and it never went over a third. but i do have a different radiator

[hugh]

thats what I'm trying to find out...just what reading on the gauge should i start worry at...that way, I'll be able to work out whether my radiator is sufficient
What radiator do you have Johl?

[johl]

I'm not too sure. i think its a twin core cuz it is pretty thick. maybe excel? not too sure cuz my car was all stock when i bought it apart from the ze transplant. and my thermo is hooked up to a thermostat and it runs for like 10 mins after i turn it off. get a temp guage radiator cap and see what your ge runs at then when u put the ze in try it again. i really can't see them running way hotter than a ge

[foxtail]

I have had several 4AGZEs.

First up, a stock AE92 small port. Not bad, power did not drop off untill the rev limiter, 8-9psi

Then I put on a 175cm Nevo pulley. Can feel more torque but power drops off above 6500. Fast enough to keep up with 200SX and MR2 GT in a drag.
I broke 4 x T50 gearboxes, 2 S diffs and 2 T diffs with that setup (and had a clutch rip appart). I gave it a hard time.

Next was another car, with a AE92 small port ZE, SC14 supercharger and 100kw intake manifold. Very nice. The pull of the SC12/Nevo, but didnt drop off untill above 7500rpm. Did a 14.38 at willowbank in a panelvan with stock rear leaf springs and open diff. Kept up with 13 second cars above 60km/h.
Nice drift combo, made 11psi.

Then I put a nevo 175cm pulley on it with the SC14 and intake manifold. Made 16psi. Torque monster! But power drops off above 6500rpm again.
Broke a couple more T boxes and 1 diff.

So I put in a W55 box - no sign of problems.

Next, I split port the head (full port the left side of each port pair). Nice, about 15% more pull and barely any change down low. Still drops off at 6500rpm.

OK, next was 285 cams. That is the shit!!!! Woohoo! Boost dropped to 11psi, pulls as hard as with 16psi, but wont drop off will somewhere above 7000RPM.
Instantly drifting started to get scary, the exit speeds were much higher! There was a fair bit of loss down low, power starts at roughly 4000 and just keeps climbing.

I had no problem tuning my Razorback ECU for all of these engines, with stock injectors. I did run 550cc injectors at one stage but sold them (the stock ones are maxed out now, so I will upgrade again soon).

I don't have a BOV or bypass valve, but I do run a second throttle (runs on vaccuum) to stop idle problems and lift off overrun (ZEs and big coolers = problems).
Clips are on youtube samkaos.

I am in the middle of twin charging this engine and have fully ported the head. The GT28RS runs through a front mount and throttle body to the SC14, then to a small high flow intercooler then to the intake manifold. Should have it running soon, aiming for 18psi (with these cams should make about 340-260hp at the flywheel).

I have seen 3 MR2 big port ZEs throw rods through the block, and they normally need more boost to make the same HP as a small port ZE.

So my advice, SC14 and cams and intake manifold!! Stock ecu can handle 15psi but not cams too good. Stay under 270 degree cams, mine are a bit too big for the street.

[biggo]

has anyone done a ZE to TE conversoin and ported the intake plenum cos of not needing the tvis plate?

Ive started mine and just want to see how far to take the ridge back.

Also is coldstart esential?

[gaz20v]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (biggo @ Aug 6 2008, 11:37 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=571967)</div>
Also is coldstart esential?[/b]

my gze doesnt have the coldstart injector connected, is a bit of a bitch to start some mornings but should be easy enough to fix up cos it runs microtech, what ecu you running??

[Gilly]

i don't think it gets cold enough here in oz to warrant the cold start injector. there is no gain in removing it though so i'd leave it in place.

[Stej]

has anyone seen this before was reading bout it last night seems not bad but the price is bit expensive $3500 his made it also fit rwd setup too what do you guys reckon about it?
http://hometown.aol.com/mr2swift/twinscrew.html

[riojin]

quite impressive. 250hp @ 7000rpm @ 21psi. nice flat torque curve too

i can't justify spending $3500 on a supercharger setup but its definately nice to dream!

[Todd]

it would be nice to have that setup, would certainly put alot of other cars to shame, and drivers for that matter. with that amount of power at 7k, who wouldn't be happy with a 3500 dollar purchase, i definately would be :)

although that is more than i paid for my car in the first place hahah

[biggo]

heres another one.

my gze has a widget where the oil filter goes. its like an oil cooler block only mine doesnt have an oil cooler. Never did either. so what is it and whats it do?

[riojin]

^ no idea


its more than $3500. some people run their 4agzes ont a t50 then a t seres diff. with the amount of power that supercharger setup is making you will need a w5x gearbox and e or f series diff.

ive been reading up on that setup and hes now trying to put a larger eaton supercharger on it so it will make 300hp or more... hes also trying to sell the setup in a kit to other people. hes got 5 kits ready so far

[johl]

yeh would love one just to hang onto and put on one day but he has been building the kit for like 2 years and those kits still arnt done for the first 5 people (as far as i could find when i researched it anyway)

[Todd]

finally got around to my intercooler setup
its 2inch mandrel, the bottom pipe was cut and welded so its straight.
cooler size is 280x300x76mm from just jap (i know) lol
heres some pics.

[hugh]

Engine bay looks hott man!! looks very simple, comparerd to a lot of others ive seen...

[sprinterturbs]

hows it affected the response,compared to the old (aggressive) setup

[Todd]

its still fairly responsive, but the difference is definitely noticeable, before i could lift revs up very quick, without much pressure on the throttle, but now it takes maybe 1/4 or 1/2 a second longer between pressure and then throttle.
overall the piping isn't that long, i haven't got around to measuring yet but its shorter than the average.

i took a shortcut by cutting the charger outlet pipe to point forwards which made a big difference, and in retrospect i should have cut and flipped the intake pipe too but didnt have the skills to do so really. but that would be ideal.

still pumps out 11psi on a cold night :D

[DRFTR86]

I'm toying with the idea of a gze with a pulley in my 86, just wondering as my old car was a ae92 with a ae101 gze, it had a exedy heavy duty clutch in it, its slipped really bad if i clutched kicked it, from new even until now (mate owns it now, same problem, only 15xxx kms old). what clutch are people running with there gze and the t50????

[johl]

ae101 ze. stand boost. exedy hd cussioned button. never slipped at all.

[DRFTR86]

how dus the t50 take a button clutch, ive only ever had a exedy h/d on both my cars, someone got a pulley kit on one with a button clutch behind it???

[riojin]

i had a ae92 map gze with a nevo 185 (15psi) pulley kit. belt never slipped. make sure you clean your pulleys of any oils and use a new belt and tension it up good. retension after 5km and check tension every service (shouldnt need a retension but check it to make sure the belt hasnt streched)

[Nikkojoe]

Gates belts work the best, minimal stretch.

A good pressure plate helps keep the clutch from slipping, but goes hand in hand with a good clutch plate aswell. I'm currently using a 5puk ceramic button clutch, not that bad for daily driving and never slipped after many clutch dumps

[DRFTR86]

sweet so with a button i should be good, just also wondering what power people get with the usual mods (ie. pulley, fmic, exhaust)
has any one tried a smaller pulley on the sc12, like from www.pulleybros.com.au???

[DRFTR86]

fuckheads at work

[Todd]

hahahahahaha

[UGANGA]

i have a few problems with mu ZE atm

it has a miss under load and seems to make no power wen driving

just after ideas on what to look for
( im a noob to GZE's)

[hugh]

does it sound normal when idling? sounds like your timing may be a bit retarded...

[biggo]

that is my thought.

whack a timing light on there and have a look.

[v-tec]

Woohoo i finally got my Ae101 Ze!!!!

Started pulling it apart a bit tonight cause i gotta lighten it up a bit so i can get it down to the shed... lol i got a bit of a cheap thrill when i said 'ive taken the intercooler off' lmao... No more Na for me.
oh yeah and i pulled off the clutch and there was about 2000 years of carbon buildup haha

Gona pull off the aircon and ps when i have some proper time on the weekend, just curious what this pully us for under the supercharger

http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/8347/skej6.jpg

Its the only one im not sure on, the three on the right can come off (alternator for now, has to be relocated anyway i think...) so all fine on them

[Nikkojoe]

its to tension the charger belt, you need it :)

you will find the adjusting bolt on top of the tensioner mount (look from the top of water pump)

[v-tec]

Ahk cool, yeah i figured it was something i needed just wasnt sure...

Is there anything i should look out for when removing the aircon and p-s? Doesnt look like theyre attached to anything but wiring loom, and then of course just bolted on...

[biggo]

the nearest bin?

[hugh]

AHAHAHAHA...its not a corolla if the air con works anyway...dead weight...

[UGANGA]

yeh
i will get the timing checkd soon
it sort of hunts for revs wen idling

BTW its a AE101 ZE if that helps lol

[v-tec]

Oh yeah hahaha i should have pointed out Ac and ps were going in the bin, just didnt wanna fuk up anything i need to keep haha

[n00bvak]

dont wanna hijack thread but please give me a hand identifying these ze plugs!!!

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/board/in...showtopic=36593 (http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/board/index.php?showtopic=36593)

[Gilly]

added this in grants alternator mount question thread, useful here though as well

i made my alternator mount today using the stock cast mounting piece.

stock alternator + a/c comp mount is pictured on the right (picture stolen from olyae86)

http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/2544/tensionereq0.jpg

this is what i ended up with (steel cutoff saw FTW!!)

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/4/8/4/3/177017.jpg

have to use an adjustment strap like 4AGE/4AC as opposed to a pullet but its easy enough to get that working (didn't get around to it today but i know what needs to be done) there are 2 bolt holes roughly 30/40mm above the alternator mount holes in the block, going to bolt sturdy steel strap to thes holes with a 90* bend at the crankpulley end. from this bend i'll fix the adjuster strap with 2 bolts and i should then have a fully functioning mount and tensioner assembly :)

using the stock mount means the alternator will be driven from the front of the crank pulley like factory which is pretty important if you are running an oversize pulley as the bigger the pulley the faster you spin the alternato and water pump if running off the rear section. plan now is to space the water pump pulley out so it too rns of the front ribbed section thus giving an underdriven effect much the same as running a larger water pump pulley :)

worth noting fitted alternator and mount to the dead 4ac in the wrecker 86 and it cleared the sway bar by a good 20mm :)

actually should have taken a picture of that....

[v-tec]

Im planning to get a metal head Gasket for the ze also, just figured some sorta Trd one or something.
What do people recomend for something thats only stock for now, but will be getting built up slightly as time goes by.

Figure maybe a 1.0mm? Wouldnt mind just a bit higher compression than standard... but i dont know ze's so well

[riojin]

if youre using 98 or 100 octane fuel then raising the compression will be fine

[XaeRob]

Just finished wiring up my ae86 to the ae101 GZE ecu, and I don't seem to be getting anything out of the 22pin plug (ecu warning light, fuel pump relay etc doesn't work)

Anyone have any tips for what I could have missed? hope its not a faulty ecu, The plug was pushed in properly. Could I have missed a earth somewhere?

[samuek]

fuel pump relay should be earthed, i had the same problem when i re wired mine... ecu light i wouldnt have a clue tho

[XaeRob]

Its the whole lot on the plug, I've not touched the fuel pump since it was on the 4age where it worked fine.

not getting exhaust temperature light too (also from the same 22pin ecu plug)

[Nikkojoe]

All lights pin outs are earths when activated. To setup your fuel pump, use this wiring diagram (two relays - same as the factory single circuit opening relay, aka COR):

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/dcimages/8/9/2180.jpg

[tony_kim]

with AFM 4age, to put in supercharger engine (afm version) is it as simple as swap the engine and ecu ??

like keep existing loom etc... ??

or not that simple ??

[Nikkojoe]

Each engine has a specific loom and ecu. You really cant just start miss matching looms and ecus, for one the ecu plugs are mostlikely different and if they aren't, the pin outs on those plugs are.

Not simple. Buy matching ecu/loom with all sensors for it

[tony_kim]

ah cool !
thanks nikkojoe... i have never understand even basic electrics etc, so ur advice has help me a lot.

thank u !