THIS
This is why i'd never run adjustable arms, worst set ups ever.
Extended arm but not with a rod end at the inner pivot. You want to extend the lca between the ball joint and the anti-roll bar/castor rod. Then play with offsets. I think you might need to run a higher offset to reduce the scrub radius.
THIS
This is why i'd never run adjustable arms, worst set ups ever.
theres a yarn about 86 sway bars rubbing on the wheel at even basic locks ke70s. is it possible for you to try a ke70 swaybar in it? they have a little curved section just before the lca attaching point
edit
i assume the car in question is an 86
Yes it's my 86 tracker, why are you against adjustable arms jacob? And yeah I already run sigma arms shortened 10mm and I want to solve this issue with the wheels that I have
I'm thinking of trying a speedway car style front swaybar with the splined tortion bar and arm style so I can get it much narrower
there isnt anything wrong with adjustable arms, but just where they are adjusted. there is no benefit of adjusting the width between the rode joint and where the sway bar mounts. a much better alternative that almost no one uses is to make them adjustable between the ball joint and where the castor rod mounts. i believe that is what they were trying to say
stroked 2L ca18-ae86 in the build...eta xmas 2012?
If you run adjustable LCA's it moves the swaybar mounting point with it giving you no extra clearance from your wheels.
For best clearance, try Standard LCA extended in between caster arm mount and ball joint.
Yeah true, but that is basically the setup I have now, I could go a little wider but it won't give me anywhere near enough clearance for the lock I'd like
What size wheels are you running up front?
You could always shorten on the mount side and extend ball joint side, but there's only so far you can go.
Don't run a swaybar haha
yeah try having a go with swaybar disconnected, or maybe try ke70 one? comes nowhere near hitting on mine