best money spent to give the 20v more ballls

[banzai_pots]

so the vvt wold work with a 7a bottom end, yeah? would it need to be retuned? also, how much of a power gain would u be looking at with a 7a bottom end/ would it be a power gain over the whole rev range?
nice thread
cheers

[Sam-Q]

marvin, I dont care who they are or how eloborate this data is, I call bullshit. I dont know what their adjustable frp really is but I am guessing its just some crude patch of the original ecu. Its probably the same map for all their so called special ECU's too. As I have said many times, some thing the Japs do very right and other things very wrong. this might be one of them. Anyone else want to give their opinion on this one?

Multiple tuners have reported big mid range power increases going to aftermarket management. My engines torque was tottaly transformed to a slowly increasing level to one big wide and fat line, have a look at my graph to see what I mean.

In my personal opinion dont bother with cams unless you change the ecu. Those Kelford grinds arn't cheap, and you need to make sure they work with VVT before you buy them.

Now this is a bit of an odd thing to do but anyone who is passing through the S.E suberbs of Vic is welcomed to come for a drive with me in my car to see what they think. So where are you based Marvin?

[sun_moon]

agreed with sam. just because japan did it, doesnt mean its the best.... too many people worship them.

anywhoo, sam, sorry i havnt been in contact of late (busy) but yes i still have to come for a drive in your car to see !

[lo_rolla]

While we're on the subject of big revs, some one, only one, though, has told me that the oil pumps in certain 4A's have been known to pop? Is this true? What lets go? Gears or the whole case?

I'm going for a similar set up as Ken and his shit seems to be okay...

[marvin]

sorry typo ... should have been adjustable FPR (fuel pressure regulator) ... not FRP. the "original" ECU is usually a reprogrammed factory ECU with an added board/chip (like techtom), which is fairly common in japan.

i'm from vancouver, canada. i'm on dorikaze ... own a red hatch 20v if you recall ().

[Delazy]

my understanding is that its just the gears that are "subject" to failure...the TRD pumps were exactly the same casing with stronger gears...unsure of wat matieral, jonny rochester would prolly know...

[Sam-Q]

ha just as I thought, they just tweak the fuel map a little instead of doing a real job. For what I understand the power in any 4A is winding the ignition timing right up and even with boost I hear they love it. This is why my engine sounds so different; I now have much more advanced igniton timing and hence I am making a stack more mid range power.

[ke70dave]

gee youve got some knowledge mr sam!

i agree with your last statement there about the timing, tuning an N/A engine (or any engine for that matter) with only the fuel, is essntially a waste of time. or a means to an end.

this is why i dont understand how tuners can only take 1 or 2 hrs to tune engines, me and a mate have been fine tuning his megasquirt ecu (on a rotory) for months and months, getting every last bit of timing advance and getting the AFR's spot on. and it just keeps getting better and better....

[Sam-Q]

yeah a few random bits of knowlenge that I occasionaly ranage to throw together to make a usefull statement.

I have heard that in the Ford motor research department here in vic they do the testing on their new cars first on a dyno then they do the rest on the road to get the little bits right. One of the head tech's from Wolf headquarters also said it was the only way to go.

So any way for you to roughly decribe the difference from a tune from after a few hours till now a few months later? a bit more crisp?

lo_rolla: good question, there sure arn't many reports of them actually breaking, however I know there also arn't that many all out purpose built race engines in the ae86 community either. Some say around 9000 but there would be 20v's going around doing that without a problem yet.

[ke70dave]

it was more us getting rid of every little "blip" in the map. on throttle, off throttle, cruising at any rpm we kept finding very small areas (like one or 2 cells) in the map that would make the engine hesitate or mis fire. they prolly didnt need to be fixed but its all about trying to get the engine to be perfectly smooth under all conditions. wide open throttle was quite easy to tune for cuase everything is considerably constant and predictbale. the problem came when changing from 3rd gear to 2nd, at mid revs, 1/4 throttle...


i guess crisp is a good word, or closer to stock engine driverbility.

also note we are complete amateurs, the first hour was spent trying to get the thing to move without bucking and carrying on...but its all a learning experience. next time we'll know better!