lol. all that, and i made more power with a t28 on 4 psi
turbo for life
288 / 272 cams does seam mild for that power, but I guess if you have the revs...
Not so hard to make the power if you rev it that high, and you don't get valve bounce or anything.
I guess the money comes into it when it breaks, and you try to rebuild it strong.
Would you consider going to 304 cams? Reasoning behind the 288 / 272 cams? Valve spring seat pressure?
hey turbos are one thing but n/a is where the respect is and a turbo 86 just anit the same....
you just can't floor them into a corner...
thats why I'm buyin an evo so i can have my n/a drift monster and my turbo daily...
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (wide s13 @ May 21 2008, 03:46 PM) </div>
do you have the dyno read out?
the cams are what was in it when i got it so i havent touched it till now due to piston letting go.
i don't really want bigger due to it idles pretty ruff when it was running lol
but yeah it did make the power after 5grand upwards and just wanted to keep reving lol
i was looking at turbos but i love the high reving na motors
as for dyno readout ill dig it out. its in the file cabenit what a mission that is lol
but the bottom end is about a fortnight away so ill get another one then aswell.
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (shinobi @ May 22 2008, 01:45 AM) </div>AMEN, this thread isn't about turbos, you could turbo your mums civic and make more power than 4age...its not the point.
Dyno was most probably set in shoot out mode and read fairly high because that's 180kw at the motor....with those cams i think not.
To get around 147kw at the motor or around 110kw at the wheels at 8600rpm you're looking at 305 cams with 11mm lift, one piece bucket shims, 11.5:1 compression, quad throttles etc, got a magazine on an 86 which made that figure using said parts.
RT142 Estate.
AJPS.
yeah 98. it was running fairly rich when it made that figure so was detuned for daily driving.
idling over fueling but high revs was sweet.
due to fuel prices![]()
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I do have 305 cams with 11mm lift, but in a 2T-G. (For sale also). And I find the rough idle and things like that were not too bad, and are adjustable with valve timing.
I am able to set the 305 cams to close to stock lobe centres and it idles at 1000 - 1500 depending on a few things. (Factory idle is at 1000 anyway for that motor). And I find it quite acceptable on the street. But it's a mild setting, power from 3000 to 7500.
I would not be scared of big cams in a street 4A-G, the lumpy idle depends on valve timing. Setup for max power at the track, your idle may well have to be 2000 and power from 5000, but you would hope it revs to 9000. The exact same motor could have the cams set to milder setting, on a different map, and idle at 1000 easy and power from 3000.
I see on the net a few Japanese tuners have made "200ps" with a 20valve and Toda 288/272 cams or similar. There seem to be so many combinations of cams used out there. I am wondering if anyone can shed some more light. If you want a all out race N/A motor, does one just buy the biggest cams (most duration, highest lift) that a manufacturer makes, or is there some reasoning in selecting a lower duration? (Unless you have the time to test all of them).
I know of a few "N2" 86's in Japan that have "220ps" use 320 intake, 304 exhaust. And alot of "200ps" motors run 304/304 duration cams. But a fair few "200ps" 20 valves run less duration. ??? And the issue of lift on a 20valve cam? Toda make 2 lift choices. I am assuming the low lift ones can be run with stock valve springs, and the high lift ones need better valve springs if they are to rev high.
???
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (shinobi @ May 22 2008, 01:45 AM) </div>WERD!!!! :2thumbs:
MY AE86 BUILD
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/fo...read.php?t=229
aparently had 10.5:1 compression
has a trd metal headgasket as well as late model pistons
ae71 parts for sale stripping 3xae71's and a ke70