Cams for a STD 4age 16v bigport

[p a c - m a n]

For the $500 you spent, was that for BOTH cams and without exchange?



And sorry to bomb thread, but i'm looking into toda 264/9mm. what other things would i need to change to have it work correctly?

PS: i too wish to stay with the factory ecu for the time being.

[Delazy]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Big_Car_Killa @ Jun 9 2008, 09:25 PM) </div>lol, damn dude u change ur mind so often lol

264/9mm should run fine on stock ECU so toda specs and reccomendations say....valve springs are highly reccomended like ive already told u and we're on top of that anyways....

[eightsixboy]

I checked all the valve clearences and they were all done to wades specs. they were 0.009 from memory. I didn't replcae any shims, i was going to but someone from work said not to worry bout the grooves on the shim.

I'm gonna ring wade and ask them the best way to dial them in. On the card it said 110 phase, so i'm guesing thats the valve timing. From what i've read from some tech books my timing is more than likely 100/100. Which is not what i want with these cams.

[eightsixboy]

Btw yes it was 500 for both cams :2thumbs:

[SpotterOne]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (eightsixboy @ Jun 10 2008, 10:39 AM) </div>There's a fair bit of work involved when dialling in a set of cams. Its not exactly something that can be told to you over the phone.

The 110 degrees is lobe separation. This is built into the cam. Dosen't really mean anything to you when dialling cams.

When I installed my cams (Wade 800A), I rang Wade for what they suggested I dial them to. They suggested that 107 on the intake and 103 on the exhaust would give a good idle and good torque spread.

ITB's help smooth out idle so you can go a bit more radical with the cam timing, and get a bit more power if you want it, but you sacrifice a bit down low.

[p a c - m a n]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (delazy @ Jun 9 2008, 10:14 PM) </div>
lol nah lazy, this time its for MY motor, mate. not micks 20v

[70XIN]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (delazy @ Jun 9 2008, 10:14 PM) </div>Wait wait

9mm lift..

I would advise against that amount without underbucket shims



Anything over 8.5mm of lift starts getting expensive, just keep that in mind

[p a c - m a n]

okey-dokey!! better add that too micks list then . . .

[Delazy]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (70XIN @ Jun 10 2008, 05:11 PM) </div>the engine i thought big car killer was talking about is a 20v, so it can easily run 9mm lift...

but yea...anything over 8.5mm on a 16v definately starts costing u money

[eightsixboy]

From what i understand of cam timimg, if you have 100 timing on the intake taht means it takes 100 degrees of crank rotation from tdc for the valve to open fully? So if you had say 110/110 timing you would set the crank to tdc, get a dial indicator and measure how many degrees till its fully open, and you adjust that cam untill it takes 100 degrees to open it fully, will more than likely meaen that you have the inlet valve opening maybe 24 before tdc.

Another thing is what is the best timing for my 267 cams? I would like my power band around 5-7000. At the moment with the cams in the standard position it feels like i have gained no power above 5,000rpm. From what i gather i would have to retard the inlet cam, and i don't know with the exhaust? Advance it? But then i would decrease the amount of overlap wouldn't i?