Hooking up a 4age 16v RWD cooling system

[Nikkojoe]

Maybe i'm just thinking about it too hard, or the fact that i've not had much sleep I guess the more i think about it, all would be around the same temp so it wouldn't make too much of a difference.

But yes, initially was just to use the old heater lines.

[Sam-Q]

trust me it will be fine

[ke70dave]

also remember that if your thermostat is working well, and your radiator is working well. then the all the water in the engine should be pretty close to the same temperature. thats the purpose of the thermostat, to keep the coolant temperature pretty constant, and thus keep the engine temp pretty constant.

of course there will be "hot" bits and "cold" bits but these shouldnt vary by more than 10-15degrees or so. (maybe a bit more, but it certainly shouldnt be boiling)

also remember that your turbo is going to be a whole lot hotter than the water that is flowing through it.

turbo might be 200+ degrees (if its glowing, its around 800deg, so its bloody hot either way), and you are flowing water through it that may vary from 80-100 degress. heat transfer relies on temperature differences, and there is going to be a pretty massive delta T weather the turbo sees 80 deg water or 100 deg water.

so im with sam, it will be fine.

also i dont like the idea of using that dodgy tap to block the pipe!!

[Hen may possibly be a nut]

Nikkojoe - I think theoretically you're right, it'd be best to get your turbo feed from just after the radiator, and return it just before the radiator. But in practice the difference would be SFA in my opinion.

I guy I know with cooling problems on an RX7 ran the return water line from the turbo through a little cooler (maybe an old transmission cooler) before it ran back into the engine. The cooler got stinking hot so must have been doing something.

Hen

EDIT - didn't see page 3 before quick replying... so I'm a bit late...

[Nikkojoe]

Was thinking about that last night, running possibly a heater core or some similar sized cooler just after the turbo before it re-circulates back into the engine.

The point i was trying to make was that under normal conditions these pipes should re-circulate slightly cooler water back into the engine, not hotter water after cooling the turbo. That said a lot of people run it just from the heater pipes, and not many seem to have problems. I've still got plenty of time to play around with it, but need monitor the water temps at different spots.

Anyway, as for tap i've seen it done no problems when someones heater core was leaking. Still running fine no dramas (3 years now). Also, I have seen the initial setup shown with the bridge hose used and working fine to.....but that's another story

[cri_ag]

umm this is a major fuck up, the rear water outlet is where the temp sensors are located, you now have blocked that circuit hence no water flowing past sensors, you will not achieve an accurate temp reading for your coolant, not to mention fucking up the water-flow throughout the rear of the head.

[Sam-Q]

really? if that is so then ever time your heater is off your going to loose your readings for the ECU and dash? no, the water and aluminium appears to be good enough to keep good enough temperatures there as through the middle.

[cri_ag]

when the heater is closed the water can still flow via the throttle body circut

[cri_ag]

and dash temp is taken from the front outlet pipe, the other sensor is for the cold start injector. also how do you ever plan to bleed the air out of the back of the head if you have stuck a bung in there.

[Sam-Q]

now correct me if I am wrong but doesn't only the big port have the coolant through the throttle? or am I mistaken.

Now why would it have an air lock? it's not the lowest part of the head and doesn't have any upward cavities . Would you normally undo the hose off the heater core to bleed the air?