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Thread: TODA for my car

  1. #1

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    Been having a few problems with the 86 lately, blowing out bluish smoke and engine oil draining pretti quick wen i hit high revs

    im guessing its the piston rings...and just in case, im gonna toughen it up before anymore damages to the engine.

    I got a quote for a few TODA Racing parts:

    * TODA Forged Engine Pistons Kit

    * TODA Uprated Valve Springs

    * TODA Racing Camshafts

    * TODA Cam Gears

    * TODA Timing Belt

    All to fit the 20V Black Top, I have the $$$ to buy and install :2thumbs:

    but if i get these, i should b able to rev to 10,000 safe with a ECU? (i have a TOMS gauge)

    i dont have a ECU yet but which one would u's recommend? and where to get it tuned?

    and exactly how much stronger are Forged? any other engine parts u recommend i need?

    its not a race car, i just want to go to track and drift a few times, and maybe autosalon a few times

    Thanks for reading my noob post

  2. #2
    Veteran Bustin_86's Avatar
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    Please dont take any of this post offensively, you seem to have the right idea but it sounds like you havent looked into stuff quite as extensively as you should.

    Firstly, TODA make great parts, but just because you strap some sick stuff into your 4age doesnt mean you can blip away to 10,000. With these parts that you have suggested i can see a small rev limit raise being acceptable (take more advantage of bigger cams) but the weak points in your motor (in regards to a "rev raise") havent been adressed. Things like Bearings, Fasteners, Oil Delivery, Conrods etc all play a much bigger part than forged pistons when it comes to a high revving motor that will last.

    As for a ECU i would reccomend either microtech (i sell them) or adaptronic. Both are widely available, are affordable and have good tuning capabilities.

    Forged pistons are considerably stronger than cast pistons, but the real gain in using a toda forged piston will be the considerable compression ratio raise.

    Lastly, if its not really a race car than maybe you dont really need to rev to 10,000 and make 220 rwhp. Your not trying to take out the N2 cup, so maybe its a better idea to drop that final goal to 8500 or 9000 (easily achievable with off the shelf parts) and setlle for 160-180 hp. This will make everything last SO much longer, and will ultimately provide a more fun car for you. And 160 hp atw in a small light rwd car.... more than enough to get yourself into trouble, trust me .

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    Site Supporter Javal's Avatar
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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Bustin_86 @ Nov 8 2007, 12:47 PM) </div>My thoughts exactly.

    Also if you are hellbent on uberhigh revs, then having the reciprocating mass (crank, rods, pistons) balanced is a definate go-er.

    but there's other things to think about when it comes to your engine build which are equally / more important than 'will it rev to 10,000 like my mate's brotary?'

    Where do you want the power band to be? - WHY do you want the power band to be there?
    how do you want the power delivery to be?
    Is the rest of the drivetrain going to be up to the task?
    Is my car's suspension up to the task?'
    Do i have the driving skills harness this power?

    Things like that.

    Javal.
    You can have any brew you want... as long as it's a Datsun / Corolla / What is that?

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    Veteran Nikkojoe's Avatar
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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (jcae86 @ Nov 8 2007, 11:01 AM) </div>Worn Valve seals cause blue smoke, not piston rings
    1983 AE86 ADM rust spec goodness track car build - end of the road
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    Some other things you will need to think about before hitting up "big numbers" (revs and power) would include:

    - Oil Delivery (dry sump, more efficient pump/pulley system)
    - Flow work (head porting etc)
    - COMPREHENSIVE balance (As javal said, but to reach 10,000 you have to get something pretty special done here, experience in specific tolerances is a must! Think more NASCAR than repco engine replacement)
    - Cooling (Bigger radiator/oil coolers pretty simple fixes here really)
    - HIGH octane fuel (think 98 + av gas to deal with the compression)

    And thats before you even think about anything back of the flywheel. Im not trying to scare you off i think its great that your planning a nice NA build, just want you to be aware of the facts and needs.

    Edit- If its the valve seals the smoke emissions should be minimal when its running but bad on startup, due to all the oil leaking from the head into the bore when the car is sitting there. Rings would be a more steady cloud that rises with revs.

  6. #6

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    ohh THANKS for all the warnings, will know wat to do now

    yea i guess i should just do a mild to average setup, have already ordered those parts. will move onto a ECU and cooling asap

    sorry, just started getting into 86's, dont kno much about the engine

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    Veteran Bustin_86's Avatar
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    Dude no need to apologise.

    Just dont want you spending coin and popping good motors.

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    Site Supporter Driftspec's Avatar
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    We always knew it would need a rings/seals change some day, that engine was driven for many years with no air filter on it which explains the lovely cloud that appears from behind that car

    I probably wouldn't expect too many gains from that engine without replacing a lot of the parts in it, its had a hell of a life. Might need to have a chat with Ant from Kaizen (he did the conversion way back when), see what he reckons
    4AGE is here! Cheers 44GTE and Anthony for your help! http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/fo...ad.php?t=10384

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  9. #9

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    lol driftspec, i c why now haha, i never saw u on the nebo cruise too

    1 more thing, which engine oil do u's recommend? i have no idea, booked a service next week

  10. #10
    riojin
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    well after you run the engine in i would be using penrite SIN 10 or 15 for your engine. that or penrite fully synthetic 5w-60 (which is practically the same as SIN 10).


    i think i know whos car you bought. it was on car sales for awhile. its a white trueno with GTV stickers on it.

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