Already posted - I got rid of that, was the 1st thing I thought of..no love though.
Fuk I'm not that stupid! Hahah
Could work , but I still reckon its air that just won't come out.
I checked it before it went in and it was ok.. I'll have another geeza
um.. is the clutch slave just a standard one or a nismo one? i know you need a nismo one for an epic clutch to assist with engaging the clutch cause most nissan guys have soft left foot (not saying we're normal nissan guys coming from Toyota's LOL) but can a 1tonne pp be too much for a stock slave to push? i have no proof of this but generally most people upgrade to nismo when they go tougher clutch setups.
dose
I know this is obvious, but is there a chance the internal seals in the Clutch master or slave have been installed facing the wrong way? That could have the symptom of having a little pressure for a second, and then the pedal going soft like you've said.....
1974 MX22 MARK II CORONA HARDTOP COUPE - Awaiting a full restoration
Hold on I just had a thing, the ability for the slave to move rearward is normal....
^^^ Richard, In my SR86, I run a 1600kg Pressure plate (and 6 puk ceramic race disc), yep, thats right 1600kg!!!! I just use the standard slave, and have no problems.....
1974 MX22 MARK II CORONA HARDTOP COUPE - Awaiting a full restoration
So I decided to replace the clutch master and save with genuine nissan items,
I'm getting a lend off a vacuum bleeder tomorrow so I'll see how it all goes.
1st I replaced the slave with a $25 aftermarket item. Made no difference.
2nd pulled the whole system out and bench bled it and removed the funky box. Made no difference.
3rd tried to bleed it with 2 people... No good.
I can still grab the clutch fork and push the pin back into the Slave about 10mm approx.
When I tested the system after bench bleeding by locking off the slave and compressing the master, there was only 1mm or 2 movement before it was solid.
But put it back in and pressed the slave again.. Same 10mm travel.
Pedal still feels soft and gets firmer about 50% pedal travel.
Why normal bleeding doesn't work I don't know?
Why bench bleeding didnt work, even after the test says its ok.. It's still shithouse.
I'll try this vacuum bleeder...and all genuine parts... Better bloody work!
I might add... I had this exact same setup working perfectly before the motor came out.
It sounds like you've pretty comprehensively bled the system. But I've had annoying issues before with a clutch that took forever to bleed because the bleed nipple wasn't quite at the highest point of the slave. I had to jack the front (or back, can't remember) of the car up to get the last air bubbles to float up to the nipple. And even then it took ages to get the pedal firm.
I even did that... When the car is level, the master angle upward toward the nose of the car.
The outlet is at the from and the reservoir is at the rear...
So I jacked it up from the rear as high as it would go... Re bled, only made a small difference
How are you bleeding it? Pressure bleeding? Open-down-closed-up? Pumping through with the nipple open into a bottle full of brake fluid?
What size is the new line?
clutches are ####s to bleed compared to brakes, always have issues vac bleed seems to work the best and pumping the pedal a few times then holding down and opening niple
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