Reply With Quotebearing lube
it should a couple mm in from the face. if it was flush it wasn't in all the way. so that plus the bearing lube, and it would of pushed itself out the first time it got full oil pressure
Rear Main Seal - cause of failure shortly after install?
Ok long story short, rebuilt 4age 16v in my gti ae92, just got it in and running over the weekend, after a quick lap of my street I discovered a chronic oil leak between bellhousing/block... rad not...
Anyhow pulled gearbox off this morning and found my rear main seal (which was brand new genuine) to be almost all the way out of the housing... rad not...
It was installed properly/straight, my exact procedure was that I put the seal face down on a flat surface and pressed the housing over it so the face of each was flush and level, a little bearing lube was used to aid the install....
Wtf happened to make it fail like it did? does the seal need to be pushed deeper into the housing past the face? that's the only thing I can see be a factor, not much else can change really.. Ive done a few rear mains and never had a drama before?
Cheers for any insight
Niz
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BENT MECHANIX - Garage 20:
bearing lube
it should a couple mm in from the face. if it was flush it wasn't in all the way. so that plus the bearing lube, and it would of pushed itself out the first time it got full oil pressure
Last edited by Gunner; 14th August 2013 at 02:22 PM.
So don't lube the outside face of the seal at all when installing?
------------------>>>Need something welded locally??? Hit me up, I may just be able to help<<<------------------
BENT MECHANIX - Garage 20:
I normally push them in with a 1/4" extension bar.. start at 12 o'clock, then 6, then 3, then 9 and work my way around until it is in.
The clutch plate will also be soaked in oil, and may cause issues with the pads.
Ae86 Drivingclub - Toyota AE86 Car Club where AE86 | KE70 | Toyota 86 / GT86 | Subaru BRZ | Scion FRS owners
only lube the inner of the seal, where the crank turns.
sweet, cheers gunner, all I needed to know.... Matt, clutch is sweet, no oil to be seen on it nor the flywheel surprisingly so all good there... I prefer to push them in with equal pressure on the complete surface
------------------>>>Need something welded locally??? Hit me up, I may just be able to help<<<------------------
BENT MECHANIX - Garage 20:
What Gunner said...... I only lube the inner seal edge on those type of oil seal rings
1974 MX22 MARK II CORONA HARDTOP COUPE - Awaiting a full restoration
Have you taken the box off to see what went wrong as in is the seal still in place ?? as has been said ideally no lube should be used on the outside & also I keep an eye on how easy the seal goes in & if it goes in very easy I put a smear of silicone on the very outside face outer edge to housing rim, just a bit of piece of mind ... As has been said you must put a smear of grease on the complete seal lip & even a light bit on the crank too ..
I am surprized no one has mentioned excessive oil pressure from a stuck/seized relief valve in the oil pump. The rear main is the weakest link above 80psi
Did you notice anything on the guage when you went for your run around the block??
Engine Oil pressure wont push out the seal as the crankshaft rear main bearing journal & the rear seal are not on the same plain, but crankcase pressure from blow by etc Will push out the seal ..
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